Many things in Compiègne are beautiful, but not many of them are very
old. Joan's statue looks toward the handsome and richly ornamented
hôtel de ville, but Joan could not have seen this building, for it
dates a hundred years after her death. There are the handsome churches,
in one or both of which she doubtless worshiped, when she had first
delivered the city, and possibly a few houses of that ancient time
still survive.
Next morning we visited the palace. It has been much occupied by
royalty, for Compiègne was always a favorite residence of the rulers of
France. Napoleon came there with the Empress Marie Louise, and Louis
Philippe and Napoleon III both found retirement there.
I think it could not have been a very inviting or restful home. There
are long halls and picture-galleries, all with shiny floors and stiffly
placed properties, and the royal suites are just a series of square,
fancily decorated and upholstered boxes strung together, with doors
between. But then palaces were not meant to be cozy. Pretty soon we
went back to the car and drove into a big forest for ten miles or more
to an old feudal castle,--such a magnificent old castle, all towers and
turrets and battlements,--the château of Pierrefonds, one of the finest
in France. It stands upon a rocky height overlooking a lake, and it
does not seem so old, though it had been there forty years when Joan of
Arc came, and it looks as if it might remain there about as long as the
hill it stands on. It was built by Louis of Orleans, brother of Charles
VI, and the storm of battle has often raged about its base. Here and
there it still shows the mark of bombardment, and two cannon-balls
stick fast in the wall of one of its solid towers. Pierrefonds was in
bad repair, had become well nigh a ruin, in fact, when Napoleon III at
his own expense engaged Viollet-le-Duc to restore it, in order that
France might have a perfect type of the feudal castle in its original
form. It stands to-day as complete in its structure and decoration as
it was when Louis of Orleans moved in, more than five hundred years
ago, and it conveys exactly the solid, home surroundings of the
mediæval lord. It is just a show place now, and its vast court and its
chapel and halls of state are all splendid enough, though nothing
inside can be quite as magnificent as its mighty assemblage of towers
and turrets rising above the trees and reflecting in the blue waters of
a placid lake.
It began raining before we got to Paris, so we did not stop at
Crepy-en-Valois or Senlis, or Chantilly, or St. Denis. In fact, neither
the Joy nor I hungered even for Paris, which we had once visited. The
others had already seen their fill, so, with only a day's delay, we all
took the road to Versailles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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