By and by, being really cool in mind and body, we drew up abreast of a
meadow which lay a little below the road, a place with a brook and
over-spreading shade, and with some men and women harvesting not far
away. We thought they would not mind if we lunched there, and I think
they must have been as kind-hearted as they were picturesque, for they
did not offer to disturb us. It was a lovely spot, and did not seem to
belong to the present-day world at all. How could it, with the homes of
the old French kings all about, and with these haymakers, whose
fashions have not minded the centuries, here in plain view to make us
seem a part of an ancient tale?
Chenonceaux, the real heart of the royal district, is not on the Loire
itself, but on a small tributary, the Cher. I do not remember that I
noticed the river when we entered the grounds, but it is a very
important part of the château, which, indeed, is really a bridge over
it--a supremely beautiful bridge, to be sure, but a bridge none the
less, entirely crossing the pretty river by means of a series of high
foundation arches. Upon these arches rises the rare edifice which
Thomas Bohier, a receiver-general of taxes, began back in 1515. Bohier
did not extend Chenonceaux entirely across the river. The river to him,
merely served as a moat. The son who followed him did not have time to
make additions. Francis I came along, noticed that it was different
from the other châteaux he had confiscated, and added it to his
collection. Our present-day collectors cut a poor figure by the side of
Francis I. Think of getting together assortments of coins and
postage-stamps and ginger-jars when one could go out and pick up
châteaux! It was the famous Catherine de Medici, daughter-in-law of
Francis I, who finished the palace, extending it across the Cher,
making it one of the most beautiful places in the world.
We stopped a little to look at the beautiful façade of Chenonceaux,
then crossed the draw-bridge, or what is now the substitute for it, and
were welcomed at the door by just the proper person--a fine, dignified
woman, of gentle voice and perfect knowledge. She showed us through the
beautiful home, for it is still a home, having been bought by Mr.
Meunier, of chocolate fame and fortune. I cannot say how glad I am that
Mr. Meunier purchased Chenonceaux. He did nothing to the place to spoil
it, and it is not a museum. The lower rooms which we saw have many of
the original furnishings. The ornaments, the tapestries, the pictures,
are the same. There is hardly another place, I think, where one may
come so nearly stepping back through the centuries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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