At any time a few steps will take the traveler from out this Forest of
Rainbows, to where he may stand on the very verge of the terrific
Chasm. Here he is directly opposite the Falls, which come rushing over
the further tip in a mass of foam as white as snow, to fall with a roar
more than four hundred feet into the dreadful abyss. By leaning over,
it is possible at times to see the river at the bottom, a boiling,
turbulent torrent racing furiously to the right along its rock-bound
bed; but more often all is hidden in the mist, which is hurled upward
so densely that in places the Chasm seems choked with it, and it rushes
past the observer with an audible sound and a suggestion of
irresistible force, awe-inspiring to a degree. Opposite the Main Falls,
a spot known to the natives as Shongwe, the Caldron, it is so heavy as
to blot out sky, forest, and even the Falls themselves, and we are in a
strange twilight, half smothered in vapors and wholly deafened with the
thunderous roar of the Falls so close at hand.
Everywhere are double rainbows of surpassing brightness, sometimes
arches, sometimes complete, glowing circles. They are so close, one may
watch their melting colors as in a soapbubble; and they move and change
continually with the sun or the movements of the spectator. They gleam
softly in the cloud, brilliantly against the stern black cliffs; and
tiny rainbows by hundreds dance in the falling sheets of water and
among the palms and ferns of the forest.
A strange circumstance cannot fail to strike the observer, and awe him,
as perhaps nothing else could, with a sense of the vast depth of the
fissure into which he fearfully gazes. The spray and rain bring into
being hundreds of streams, which flash over the edge of the cliff
opposite the Falls in an eternal effort to rejoin their parent river.
But they never reach the bottom. Long before they are half-way down,
they vanish, dissipated once more into spray, and borne upward in the
form of lighted mist.
Of the radiant beauty of the whole scene, one writer, a traveler of
renown, says:
"I believe that on that day I was gazing at the most perfectly
beautiful spectacle of all this beautiful world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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