I observed to the Padre, that, on the way from Sololá, I had noticed that the Indians contrived to live in an isolated manner. He said this was always the case with them. They were naturally inclined to keep much apart. Those who lived amongst the mountains had their huts at considerable distances from each other, and the villages maintained but little communication; as a natural consequence the language was always changing. “All these Quichés,” he said, “are becoming extremely ignorant. They keep no record of time or events, and do not seem to take interest in anything except the dull procedure of their daily lives.” The Padre had found it impossible to feel in any degree assured, that he understood the private feelings or political views of these Indians. He considered them to be apparently indifferent to what was passing around them, and yet capable of being aroused in a very sudden manner, and of acting together for some common purpose. Their enthusiasm for anything relating to their superstitious devotion to the images was however very evident. One of the things which he thought to be inexplicable, was their extraordinary veneration for the rite of baptism. They seemed to attach some peculiar importance to this ceremony, although the Padre did not think that what was in their minds had any reference to the Church tenets. In all matters connected with religion, the Indians had become quite independent. They came from afar to make offerings of blossoms and leaves, lighted candles before the altars of those saints they wished to honour, and then silently returned to their huts. In the morning, before leaving San Tomas, I was interested in observing in the crowded Plaza, some of the characteristics of this once powerful Indian race. The men were of middle size, strongly built and of a swarthy copper colour. Their noses were large and remarkably broad at the base. Their eyes were dark and wild. In features many of them resembled the Sioux. Their voices were loud and the language disagreeably rough. The women had soft voices and were very gentle in their manners. They reminded me of the Coptic women of Lower Egypt, in their method of carrying their pitchers of water. There was the same graceful attitude, and slow and steady walk. What perhaps, added to some extent to the resemblance was the long blue dress, and the little turban-shaped mat placed on the head to receive the pressure of the weight. CHAPTER XI. Barrancas. — Santa Cruz del Quiché. — Padre Andres Guicola. — Ruins of Utatlan. — Report of Don Garcia de Palacio upon human sacrifices to the gods in Central America, Statement of Bernal Diaz, about the sacrifices in Mexico. — Burning of the Quiché Caciques at Utatlan. — Worship of idols by the Quichés. — Sierras. — Gueguetenango.