The journey from San Tomas to Santa Cruz del Quiché was made unexpectedly fatiguing, in consequence of the difficulties placed across our track by the numerous barrancas which traversed the plains. Several of these ravines were of considerable depth, and their slopes were abrupt. It was satisfactory to realize that we were travelling in the dry season, and the footing for the mules was therefore fairly secure. Upon our arrival at the village, I rode onwards to the convent steps where I was met by Padre Andres Guicola, who was unfeignedly delighted to see me. He said that he was glad to welcome me, and talk to somebody who was not an Indian, and was particularly pleased to hear that I was an Englishman, for he was a Biscayan, and had been born and bred near San Sebastian, and had listened to the traditions concerning the great Duke of Wellington, and memories, on the part of the ladies, of the brave officers of his army. It added much to the pleasure he felt in receiving me, to know that his guest was the son of one of those officers, who had not only been present at the operations in Biscay and on the French frontier, but was also severely wounded at Albuera, a battle held in great respect by all patriotic Spaniards. [Illustration: QUICHÉ INDIAN. (HOLDING THE OFFICE OF ALGUAZIL.)] His isolation amongst these secluded mountains, must have been repugnant to the nature of this kind hearted and genial padre. He told me that he had been living in his parish twenty-one years, having been appointed in 1849, and during that long time regularly fulfilled his duties amongst his Indians. He declared, in answer to some questions that I asked with reference to the adjacent ruins of Utatlan, that he knew but little except from what he had read in the history of Juarros. The friars of the convent wrote some observations about them, and also possessed some documents relating to the ancient customs of the Quichés, but these were destroyed during the revolution of 1829, when the churches and convents were sacked. Consequently no records existed. The view from the Convent was magnificent, commanding towards the north-west the ranges of the Cordilleras, and towards the south-west the hills near Quezaltenango. The lofty plateau upon which it stood, was nearly seven thousand feet above the sea. It is upon three sides severed from the outer world by a steep barranca which almost surrounds it. The ruins of Utatlan, the ancient capital of the Quichés, were about one mile distant, and were evidently placed in such a manner as to take the greatest advantage of this ravine, in order to form a stronghold, which according to the conditions of Indian warfare must have been practically impregnable.