Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples: Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and UxmalBrine, Lindesay
History
Travels Amongst American Indians, Their Ancient Earthworks and Temples: Including a Journey in Guatemala, Mexico and Yucatan, and a Visit to the Ruins of Patinamit, Utatlan, Palenque and Uxmal
Brine, Lindesay
Guatemala -- Antiquities; Indians -- Antiquities; Mexico -- Antiquities; North America -- Description and travel
I was sorry when it became necessary to proceed on our journey. The
road contractor was an official who took a comprehensive interest
in whatever related to the ancient inhabitants, and his practical
knowledge was invaluable.
It was late when we finished the survey of the pyramid and its
chambers; we consequently travelled throughout the night at our best
speed. We passed through the pueblos of Tenabon and Hekelchakan and
reached Señor Escalanta’s house in Tzibalché at daylight. We were
received by the ladies of the establishment with cold and tranquil
apathy. Without saying a word, they turned out of their hammocks, and
proceeded to carry out their respective household duties. It must be
understood that the arrangements with all Ladino families are very
simple. In the tierras calientes or hot regions every one sleeps in a
hammock. The hammocks are slung to the cross poles in the principal,
and often, only apartment. At night when the ladies wish to go to bed
they turn in, to use a sailor’s expression, all standing. The women
of all ages, young or old, wear but one dress which is always a long
cotton garment reaching from the shoulders to the feet. This is worn
day and night. The languid indifference of men and women, towards
each other and to all around them, is a marked characteristic of the
whole of the Ladino race throughout Central America. Nothing seems to
arouse their indolent natures, and although many of them are fairly
educated, they do not appear to have those qualities which form the
foundation of a good and energetic population. It cannot be considered
that the enervating influences of a tropical climate are chiefly the
cause of this inertness, for it exists in varying altitudes. It should,
however, be acknowledged that this half-caste race retains much of the
old-fashioned courtesy of their Spanish ancestors. The Ladinos have
ceased to intermarry with the Indians, and there is now no sympathy
between the two races. The Indians have almost as great a dislike to
them as they have to the Spaniards.
At Tzibalché I enlisted in my service an Indian, named Anastasio, and
after some difficulty, hired a horse of doubtful merit. Anastasio
declared that we could avoid the long round to Uxmal by the main roads,
as he knew a short cut across the country which would shorten the
journey. By that path, he said, the distance to the hacienda at Uxmal
did not exceed nine or ten leagues. Accordingly we quitted the village
at sunrise and soon afterwards entered the bush.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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