Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
The vessel in which we embarked was as miserable as it could be, there
being only a small low cabin as high as a dog-kennel, and measuring, in
its greatest width, from six to seven feet, where I and my companion
were to pass the night. We thought that a run of forty-eight hours, at
the utmost, would carry us across the gulf; but the winds in the Lesser
Syrtis are extremely uncertain, and sometimes so violent that a little
vessel is obliged to run along the coast. At first we went on tolerably
well; but the wind soon became unfavourable, and in the evening we were
obliged to cast anchor opposite Nekta, and, to our despair, were kept
there till the afternoon of Tuesday, when at length we were enabled to go
forward in our frail little shell, and reached Méheres—not Sidi Méheres,
as it is generally called in the maps—in the darkness of night. Having
made up our minds rather to risk anything than to be longer immured
in such a desperate dungeon as our gáreb, we went on shore early on
Wednesday morning with all our things, but were not able to conclude a
bargain with some Bedouin of the tribe of the Léffet, who were watering
their camels at the well.
The majestic ruins of a large castle, fortified at each corner with
a round tower, give the place a picturesque appearance from the
seaside. This castle is well known to be a structure of the time of
Ibrahim the Aghlabite. In the midst of the ruins is a small mosque.
But notwithstanding the ruinous state of the place, and the desolate
condition of its plantations, there is still a little industry going on,
consoling to the beholder in the midst of the devastation to which the
fine province of Byzacium, once the garden of Carthage, is at present
reduced. Several people were busily employed in the little marketplace
making mats; and in the houses looms, weaving baracans, were seen in
activity. But all around, the country presented a frightful scene
of desolation, there being no object to divert the eye but the two
apparently separate cones of Mount Wuedrán, far in the distance to the
west, said to be very rich in sheep. The officer who is stationed here,
and who showed us much kindness, furnishing us with some excellent
red radishes of extraordinary size, the only luxury which the village
affords, told us that not less than five hundred soldiers are quartered
upon this part of the coast. On my former journey I had ample opportunity
to observe how the Tunisian soldiery eat up the little which has been
left to the peaceable inhabitants of this most beautiful, but most
unfortunate country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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