Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake ChadBarth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa : $b Including accounts of Tripoli, the Sahara, the remarkable kingdom of Bornu, and the countries around Lake Chad
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
As soon as it became apparent that the preparations for our final
departure for the interior would require at least a month, Mr. Overweg
and I resolved to employ the interval in making a preliminary excursion
through the mountainous region that encompasses Tripoli in a radius of
from sixty to eighty miles. With this view, we hired two camels, with a
driver each, and four donkeys, with a couple of men, for ourselves and
our two servants, Mohammed Belál, the son of a liberated Háusa slave, and
Ibrahim, a liberated Bagirmi slave, whom we had been fortunate enough to
engage here; and through the Consul’s influence we procured a shoush, or
officer, to accompany us the whole way. Neither the instruments provided
by Her Majesty’s Government, nor the tents and arms, had as yet arrived.
But Mr. Overweg had a good sextant, and I a good chronometer, and we were
both of us provided with tolerably good compasses, thermometers, and an
aneroid barometer. Mr. Frederic Warrington, too, was good enough to lend
us a tent.
We had determined to start in the afternoon of the 4th of February, 1850,
so as to pass the first night in Ghargásh; but meeting with delays,
we did not leave the town till after sunset. We preferred encamping,
therefore, in the Meshíah, a little beyond the mosque, under the
palm-trees, little knowing at the time what an opportunity we had lost of
spending a very cheerful evening. Soon after starting, we emerged from
the palm-groves which constitute the charm of Tripoli, and continued our
march over the rocky ground. Being a little in advance with the shoush,
I halted to wait for the rest, when a very peculiar cry, that issued
from the old Roman building on the roadside, called “Kasr el Jahalíyeh,”
perplexed us for a moment. But we soon learnt, to our great surprise, not
unmixed with regret, that it was our kind friend Frederic Warrington,
who had been waiting for us here the whole night. From the top of the
ruin, which stands on an isolated rock left purposely in the midst of a
quarry, there is a widely extensive view. It appears that, before the
Arabs built the castle, this site was occupied by Roman sepulchres. A
little further on we passed the stone of Sidi ʿArífa. This stone had
fallen upon the head of a workman who was digging a well. The workman, so
runs the legend, escaped unhurt; and at Sidi ʿArífa’s word the stone once
more sprung to the surface. Further on, near the sea-shore, we passed the
chapel of Sidi Salah, who is said to have drawn by magic to his feet,
from the bottom of the sea, a quantity of fish ready dressed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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