Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
AFRICA.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
FROM TUNIS TO TRIPOLI.
Mr. Richardson was waiting in Paris for despatches, when Mr. Overweg and
I reached Tunis, by way of Philippeville and Bona, on the 15th of
December, 1849; and having, through the kind interference of Mr. Ferrier
the British vice-consul, been allowed to enter the town after six days’
quarantine, we began immediately to provide ourselves with articles of
dress, while in the meantime we took most interesting daily rides to the
site of ancient Carthage.
Having procured many useful articles for our journey, and having found a
servant, the son of a freed slave from Gober, we left Tunis on the 30th
of December[6], and passed the first night in Hammám el Enf. Early next
morning we followed the charming route by Krumbália, which presents a no
less vivid specimen of the beauty and natural fertility of the Tunisian
country than of the desolate state to which it is at present reduced. We
then passed the fine gardens of Turki, a narrow spot of cultivation in a
wide desolate plain of the finest soil; and leaving el Khwín to our
right, we reached el Arbʿain.
Both these places enjoy a peculiar celebrity with the natives. El Khwín
is said to have been once a populous place; but nearly all its
inhabitants were destroyed by a spring of bituminous water, which
according to tradition, afterwards disappeared. El Arbʿain, the locality
of the “forty” martyrs, is a holy place; and ʿAli, our muleteer, in his
pious zeal, took up a handful of the sacred earth and sprinkled it over
us. It is a most picturesque spot. Keeping then along the wild plain
covered with a thick underwood of myrtle, we beheld in the distance the
highly picturesque and beautiful Mount Zaghwán, the Holy Mountain of the
ancient inhabitants, which rose in a majestic form; and we at length
reached Bir el buwíta, “the well of the little closet,” at one o’clock
in the afternoon. The “little closet,” however, had given place to a
most decent-looking whitewashed khán, where we took up our quarters in a
clean room. But our buoyant spirits did not allow us long repose; and a
quarter before eleven at night we were again on our mules.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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