Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855 — John Shaqi
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
About four o’clock in the afternoon we traversed the charming little
valley called Wadi bú-harída, where we watered our horses; and then
following the camels, and passing Asermán with its little plantation,
which is bordered by a long and deep sebkha, we took up our quarters for
the night in an Arab encampment, which was situated in the midst of the
date-grove of ʿUkbah, and presented a most picturesque appearance, the
large fires throwing a magic light upon the date-trees. But there are no
roses without thorns: we were unfortunately persuaded to make ourselves
comfortable in an Arab tent, as we had no tent of our own; and the
enormous swarms of fleas not only disturbed our night’s rest, but
followed us to Tripoli.
We had a long stretch the following day to reach the capital, which we
were most anxious to accomplish, as we expected Mr. Richardson would
have arrived before us in consequence of our own tedious journey; and
having sent the Khalífa in advance to keep the gate open for us, we
succeeded in reaching the town after an uninterrupted march of thirteen
hours and a half, and were most kindly received by Mr. Crowe, Her
Majesty’s consul-general, and the vice-consul Mr. Reade, with whom I was
already acquainted. We were surprised to find that Mr. Richardson had
not even yet been heard of, as we expected he would come direct by way
of Malta. But he did not arrive till twelve days after. With the
assistance of Mr. Reade, we had already finished a great deal of our
preparations, and would have gladly gone on at once; but neither the
boat, nor the instruments, nor the arms or tents had as yet arrived, and
a great deal of patience was required. However, being lodged in the neat
house of the former Austrian consul, close to the harbour, and which
commands a charming prospect, our time passed rapidly by.
On the 25th of January Mr. Reade presented Mr. Overweg and me to Yezíd
Bashá, the present governor, who received us with great kindness and
good feeling. On the 29th we had a pleasant meeting with Mr. Frederic
Warrington on his return from Ghadámes, whither he had accompanied Mr.
Charles Dickson, who on the 1st of January had made his entry into that
place as the first European agent and resident. Mr. F. Warrington is
perhaps the most amiable possible specimen of an Arabianized European.
To this gentleman, whose zeal in the objects of the expedition was
beyond all praise, I must be allowed to pay my tribute as a friend. On
setting out in 1850, he accompanied me as far as the Ghurián; and on my
joyful return in 1855 he received me in Murzuk. By the charm of
friendship he certainly contributed his share to my success.
[Footnote 6: I cannot leave Tunis without mentioning the great interest
taken in our undertaking, and the kindness shown to us, by M. le Baron
Théis, the French consul.]
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