Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
had been able to pick up. During these occupations I was always greatly
pleased with the companionship of a diminutive species of finches which
frequent all the rooms in Ágades, and, as I may add from later
experience, in Timbúktu also; the male, with its red neck, in particular
looks extremely pretty. The poults were just about to fledge.
[Sidenote: Sunday, October 27th.]
There was one very characteristic building in town, which, though a most
conspicuous object from the terrace of our house, I had never yet
investigated with sufficient accuracy. This was the mesállaje, or high
tower rising over the roof of the mosque. The reason why this building
in particular (the most famous and remarkable one in the town) had been
hitherto observed by me only from a distance, and in passing by, must be
obvious. Difference of religious creed repelled me from it; and so long
as the town was full of strangers, some of them very fanatical, it was
dangerous for me to approach it too closely. I had often inquired
whether it would not be possible to ascend the tower without entering
the mosque; but I had always received for answer, that the entrance was
locked up. As soon, however, as the sultan was gone, and when the town
became rather quiet, I urged Hámma to do his best that I might ascend to
the top of this curious building, which I represented to him as a matter
of the utmost importance to me, since it would enable me not only to
control my route by taking a few angles of the principal elevations
round the valley Aúderas, but also to obtain a distant view over the
country towards the west and south, which it was not my good luck to
visit myself. To-day Hámma promised me that he would try what could be
done.
Having once more visited the lively house of Ídder, we took our way over
the market-places, which were now rather dull. The vultures looked out
with visible greediness and eagerness from the pinnacles of the ruined
walls around for their wonted food—their share of offal during these
days, when so many people were absent, being of course much reduced,
though some of them probably had followed their fellow-citizens on the
expedition. So few people being in the streets, the town had a more
ruined look than ever; and the large heap of rubbish accumulated on the
south side of the butchers’ market seemed to me more disgusting than
before. We kept along the principal street between Dígi and Arrafíya,
passing the deep well Shedwánka on our right, and on the other side a
school, which resounded with the shrill voices of about fifty little
boys repeating with energy and enthusiasm the verses of the Kurán, which
their master had written for them upon their little wooden tablets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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