Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Having reached the open space in front of the mosque (“sárari-n-
mesállaje”), and there being nobody to disturb me, I could view at my
leisure this simple but curious building, which in the subsequent course
of my journey became still more interesting to me, as I saw plainly that
it was built on exactly the same principle as the tower which rises over
the sepulchre of the famed conqueror Háj Mohammed Áskiá (the “Ischia” of
Leo).
The mesállaje starts up from the platform or terrace formed by the roof
of the mosque, which is extremely low, resting apparently, as we shall
see, in its interior, upon four massive pillars. It is square, and
measures at its base about thirty feet, having a small lean-to, on its
east side, on the terrace of the mosque, where most probably there was
formerly the entrance. From this the tower rises (decreasing in width,
and with a sort of swelling or entasis in the middle of its elevation,
something like the beautiful model adopted by nature in the deléb palm,
and imitated by architects in the columns of the Ionic and Corinthian
orders) to a height of from ninety to ninety-five feet. It measures at
its summit not more than about eight feet in width. The interior is
lighted by seven openings on each side. Like most of the houses in
Ágades, it is built entirely of clay; and in order to strengthen a
building so lofty and of so soft a material, its four walls are united
by thirteen layers of boards of the dúm-tree crossing the whole tower in
its entire breadth and width, and coming out on each side from three to
four feet, while at the same time they afford the only means of getting
to the top. Its purpose is to serve as a watch-tower, or at least was so
at a former time, when the town, surrounded by a strong wall and
supplied with water, was well capable of making resistance, if warned in
due time of an approaching danger. But at present it seems rather to be
kept in repair only as a decoration of the town.
[Illustration]
The Mesállaje in its present state was only six years old at the time of
my visit (in 1850), and perhaps was not even quite finished in the
interior, as I was told that the layers of boards were originally
intended to support a staircase of clay. About fifty paces from the
south-western corner of the mosque, the ruins of an older tower are seen
still rising to a considerable height, though leaning much to one side,
more so than the celebrated tower of Pisa, and most probably in a few
years it will give way to an attack of storm and rain. This more ancient
tower seems to have stood quite detached from the mosque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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