Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Having sufficiently surveyed the exterior of the tower, and made a
sketch of it, I accompanied my impatient companion into the interior of
the mosque, into which he felt no scruple in conducting me. The lowness
of the structure had already surprised me from without; but I was still
more astonished when I entered the interior, and saw that it consisted
of low, narrow naves, divided by pillars of immense thickness, the
reason of which it is not possible at present to understand, as they
have nothing to support but a roof of dúm-tree boards, mats, and a layer
of clay; but I think it scarcely doubtful that originally these naves
were but the vaults or cellars of a grander superstructure, designed but
not executed; and this conjecture seems to be confirmed by all that at
present remains of the mosque. The gloomy halls were buried in a
mournful silence, interrupted only by the voice of a solitary man,
seated on a dirty mat at the western wall of the tower, and reading
diligently the torn leaves of a manuscript. Seeing that it was the
kádhi, we went up to him and saluted him most respectfully; but it was
not in the most cheerful and amiable way that he received our
compliments—mine in particular—continuing to read, and scarcely raising
his eyes from the sheets before him.[164] Hámma then asked for
permission to ascend the tower, but received a plain and unmistakeable
refusal, the thing being impossible, there being no entrance to the
tower at present. It was shut up, he said, on account of the Kél-gerés,
who used to ascend the tower in great numbers. Displeased with his
uncourteous behaviour, and seeing that he was determined not to permit
me to climb the tower, were it ever so feasible, we withdrew and called
upon the imám, who lives in a house attached to these vaults, and which
looked a little neater from having been whitewashed; however, he had no
power to aid us in our purpose, but rather confirmed the statement of
the kádhi.
This is the principal mosque of the town, and seems to have always been
so, although there are said to have been formerly as many as seventy
mosques, of which ten are still in use. They deserve no mention,
however, with the exception of three, the Msíd Míli[165], Msíd Éheni,
and Msíd el Mékki. I will only add here that the Emgedesíye, so far as
their very slender stock of theological learning and doctrine entitles
them to rank with any sect, are Malekíye, as well as the Kél-owí.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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