Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
We descended again into Wadi Sheikh, which, winding round, crossed our
path once more. The regular layers of limestone, which present a good
many fossils, with here and there a layer of marl, form here, during
heavy rains, a pretty little cascade at the foot of the cliffs. We lost
much time by getting entangled in a branch of the wadi, which had no
outlet, but exhibited the wild scenery of a glen, worn by the torrents
which occasionally rush down the abrupt rocky cliffs. Having regained
the direct road, we had to cross a third time the Wadi Sheikh at the
point where it is joined by Wadi Ginna, or Gilla, which also we crossed
a little further on. In the fertile zone along the coast, the monotony
of the palm-groves becomes almost fatiguing; but here we were much
gratified at the sight of the first group of date-trees, which was
succeeded by others, and even by a small orchard of fig-trees. Here, as
we began to ascend the elevated and abrupt eastern cliffs of the valley,
which at first offer only a few patches of cultivated plateau, succeeded
further on by olive-trees, a fine view opened before us, extending to
the S.E. as far as the famous Roman monument called Enshéd e’ Sufét,
which is very conspicuous. Having waited here for our camels, we reached
the first village, whose name, “Ta-smeraye,” bears, like that of many
others, indubitable proof that the inhabitants of these mountainous
districts belong originally to the Berber race, though at present only a
few of them speak their native tongue. These people had formerly a
pleasant and comfortable abode in this quarter, but having frequently
revolted against the Turks, they have been greatly reduced, and their
villages at present look like so many heaps of ruins.
Having passed some other hamlets in a similar state of decay, and still
going through a pleasant but rather arid country, we reached the
oppressor’s stronghold, the “Kasr il Jebel,” as it is generally called,
although this part of the mountains bears the special name of Yefren. It
lies on the very edge of the steep rocky cliffs, and affords an
extensive view over the plain. But though standing in a commanding
position, it is itself commanded by a small eminence a few hundred yards
eastward, where there was once a large quadrangular structure, now in
ruins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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