Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
The eastern border presents a perpendicular rocky cliff about 1500 feet
high, on the brink of which lies the village Misga. The western border
consists of a cluster of detached mounts and rocks. Among these a black
cone, which attracted Mr. Overweg’s attention, was found on examination
to be pure basalt, with certain indications of former volcanic action.
From beyond this remarkable cone, a mount was visible crowned with a
castle. As we proceeded, the valley became enlivened by two small Arab
encampments. Here we gradually obtained a view of the date-grove of
Rabda, which, from the foot of the steep eastern cliffs, slopes down
into the bottom of the valley, and is overtopped, in the distance, by
the handsome bifurcated Mount Manterús. But Rabda was too far off to be
reached before sunset; and we encamped in the wadi, near a group of five
tents inhabited by Lasāba or el Asāba Arabs, whose chief paid us a visit
and treated us with bazín, but declined tasting our coffee, probably
thinking, with his fellow-chief the other day, that we were in the
service of the Turks, and wanted to poison him. All the people of these
regions regard strangers with suspicion.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, February 12th.]
Soon after we had started we entered upon cultivated ground,—the first
trace of industry we had seen in this spacious valley. The eastern
cliffs formed here a wide chasm, through which a lateral valley joined
the Wadi Sert. On the southern slope of this valley lies the Kasr
Lasába, from which a torrent that came forth from it, and crossed our
route, presented a refreshing spectacle. Emerging gradually from the
valley, we obtained an extensive view over the plain called el Gatīs.
Westward, as far as the well called Bír el Ghánem, little was to be seen
which could gladden the eye of the husbandman. Towards the north-east
the level is interrupted by a small range of hills, the culminating
points of which, called el Guleát and Mʿanmúra rise to a great
elevation. Beyond this range the plain is called Shefána, the country of
the Ur-shefána.
At nine o’clock we reached the fine date-grove of the westernmost
village of Rabda. It is fed by a copious spring, which arrested our
attention. Following it up to trace its source, we were greatly
surprised to find, in the heart of some date-trees, a basin fifty feet
in length, and about thirty in breadth, in which the water was
continually bubbling up and sending forth a considerable stream to
spread life and cheerfulness around. The water gushed up at a
temperature of 72° Fahrenheit, while that of the air was only 52°.
Besides dates, a large quantity of onions is produced in this fertile
spot. The village itself was in former times the residence of Hamíd, a
powerful Arab chieftain, who at one time ruled the whole mountainous
district, but was obliged to yield to the Turks, and lives at present
about Beni-Ulíd, where I had to deal with him on my home-journey in
1855.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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