Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
At length we were under way, and began gradually to ascend along the
strip of green which followed the shelving of the plateau into the
valley, leaving the Roman sepulchre at some distance to our right. The
flat Wadi Lebaerek, which is joined by Wadi Shák, was still adorned with
gattúf and rétem. It was not till we had passed the little hill called
Lebaerek, and made another slight ascent, that we reached the real level
of the terrible Hammáda; the ascent, or shelving ground, from Taboníye
to this point being called el Mudhár mtʿa el Hammáda, and the spot
itself, where the real Hammáda begins, Bú-safár, a name arising from the
obligation which every pilgrim coming from the north, who has not before
traversed this dreaded district, lies under, to add a stone to the heaps
accumulated by former travellers.
But, notwithstanding all the importance attached to the dreary character
of this region, I found it far less naked and bare than I had imagined
it to be. To the right of our path lay a small green hollow, of cheerful
appearance, a branch of which is said, probably with some degree of
exaggeration, to extend as far as Ghadámes; but the whole extent of the
Hammáda is occasionally enlivened with small green patches of herbage,
to the great relief of the camel. And this, too, is the reason why the
traveller does not advance at a rate nearly so expeditious as he would
expect. In the latter part of our preceding journey we generally had
made almost as much as two and a half miles an hour; but we scarcely got
over two on this level open ground. Of course, the wider the space the
wider the dispersion of the straggling camels; and much time is lost by
unsteady direction. At the verdant hollow called Garra mtʿa e’ Nejm the
eastern path, which is called Trík el mugítha (_via auxiliaris_), and
passes by the village of Gharíya, joined our path.
At Wadi Mʿamúra I first observed the little green bird generally called
asfír, but sometimes mesísa, which lives entirely upon the caravans as
they pass along, by picking off the vermin from the feet of the camels.
In the afternoon we observed, to our great delight, in the green patch
called el Wueshkeh, a cluster of stunted palm-trees. Hereabouts the
camel-drivers killed a considerable number of the venomous lizard called
bu-keshásh; and the Tarki in particular was resolute in not allowing any
which he saw to escape alive. After a moderate march of little more than
ten hours and a half, we encamped in a small hollow called, from a
peculiar kind of green bush growing in it, el Jederíya. A strong cold
wind, accompanied by rain, began to blow soon after we encamped. The
tent, not being sufficiently secured, was blown down in the night; and
we had some trouble in pitching it again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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