Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Continuing our march, we passed, about ten o’clock in the morning, a
poor solitary talha-tree bearing the appellation of el Duhéda. Further
on we found truffles, which in the evening afforded us a delicious
truffle-soup. Truffles are very common in many parts of the desert; and
the greatest of Mohammedan travellers (Ebn Batúta) did not forget them
in relating his journey from Sejelmása to Waláta, in the middle of the
14th century.[48] The sky was very dark and hazy; and the moon had an
extraordinary “dára,” or halo. We slept this night without a tent, and
felt the cold very sensibly.
[Sidenote: April 19th.]
The march of the following day was a little enlivened by our meeting
with two small caravans: the first, of five camels; the second,
belonging to Ghadámsi people, and laden with ivory, of fifteen. With the
latter was also a woman, sitting quite comfortably in her little cage.
Shortly after half-past one o’clock in the afternoon, we had reached the
highest elevation of the Hammáda, indicated by a heap of stones called,
very significantly, Rejm el erhá, 1568 feet above the level of the sea.
We encamped soon after, when a very heavy gale began to blow from
N.N.W., driving the swallows, which had followed our caravan, into the
tent and the holes formed by the luggage; but the poor things found no
protection, for our tent, which was light and high-topped, was blown
down again during the night, while a heavy rain accompanied the storm,
and we as well as our little guests were left awhile without shelter, in
a very uncomfortable situation.
We started rather late the following morning, entering now upon the very
dreariest part of the Hammáda, called el Hómra. So far there had been
only one track over this stony plateau; but in the afternoon a path,
called Msér[49] ben Wáfi, branched off towards the left. This path,
which leads to the eastern parts of Wadi Sháti, formed formerly the
common road to Fezzán, the road by way of el Hasi being considered as
too insecure, on account of the robberies of the Urfílla. Hence the
latter is still called the new road, “Trík el jedíd.” Richardson, who
had had enough of the inconveniences of travelling by night, easily got
in advance of us this morning, after our short march of yesterday, and
had advanced a good way by daytime. We were therefore anxious to come up
with him; and on our way we encountered a heavy shower of rain before we
pitched our tent.
[Sidenote: Sunday, April 21st.]
The whole caravan being once more united, the increased variety of our
own party relieved a good deal of the feeling of monotony arising from
the desolate character of the country through which we travelled. After
marching about seven miles, we arrived at the greenest and largest
hollow of the Hammáda, called Wadi el Alga, which we ought to have
reached yesterday, in order to be able to get this day as near the well
as possible.
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