Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Of course I had to make a handsome present to my new friends, consisting
of a fine black tobe, a túrkedí, and a black harám; but I doubt very
much whether my friend El Waláti gave them these articles as a present
from me, or whether he sold them as his own. However, be this as it may,
I wanted not only their protection, but their assistance too, as my
camels were so weakened by the continual humidity to which they were
exposed, that they were not fit to carry my luggage any further. But
besides, as we had to pass the seats of these lawless tribes, we had to
grope our way, as well as possible, from one encampment to the other, so
that we wanted guides; and it was therefore arranged that, hiring a
couple of pack-oxen at this place, we should join this tribe the
following morning, when they would take us on our way to the chief,
Somki. The mountainous district, in the direction of Núggera, had the
following appearance at its termination.
[Illustration]
On returning from this encampment to Bóne, being misled by a man who
professed to know the district, which for the most part consists of
swampy ground, we fell into a dangerous bog, and made our way with great
difficulty. We were also visited by a very heavy thunder-storm in the
evening, which swamped the whole country, killed one of my camels, and
rendered our night’s rest very uncomfortable. In consequence of this
violent rain our road the next day, on our way to the Tawárek, was very
bad, and we had great difficulty in avoiding the swamps; but I was
rewarded by the picturesque aspect of the scenery, a rich cascade
rushing down over the steep cliffs of the mountain, from a height of
about two hundred feet, and forming at the bottom a powerful torrent,
which swept along through a fine border of vegetation in the direction
of Bóne. The poor independent inhabitants of that mountain had left
their stone cottages and caves on the slope of the steep cliffs, and
were busy, after the fertilising rain, with the labours of the field in
their limited grounds, clearing them of the weeds. The crops promised
well, and had a healthy appearance. When we disturbed these poor people
in their labours, they retired behind the safeguard of their Cyclopean
rocks, and stared at us with great curiosity, the unusual appearance of
our whole train causing them a great deal of dismay; and it was in vain
that we endeavoured by our gestures to persuade them to continue their
labours, as they did not understand us, while we were greatly pleased to
observe that, although pagans, they were decently clad with neat aprons
of cotton round their loins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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