Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
The day that I received the important message from the Sheikh has been
impressed on my memory with so much greater force, as it was the grand
festival of the Mohammedans, or the ʿAíd el Kebír. Here also in this
city, so far remote from the centre of Mohammedan worship, the whole
population, on this important day, said their prayers outside the town;
but there being no paramount chief to give unity to the whole of the
festive arrangements, the ceremonies exhibited no striking features, and
the whole went off very tamely, only small parties of from six to ten
persons forming groups for joining in prayer, while the whole procession
comprised scarcely more than thirty horses.
After my fever had abated for a day or two it returned with greater
violence on the 17th, and I felt at times extremely unwell and very
weak, and in my feverish state was less inclined to bear with
tranquillity and equanimity all the exactions and contributions levied
upon me by Sídi Álawáte. We had a thunder-storm almost every day,
followed now and then by a tolerable quantity of rain; the greatest fall
of rain, according to the information which I was able to gather,
annually occurring during the month of September, a phenomenon in entire
harmony with the northerly latitude of the place. This humidity,
together with the character of the open hall in which I used to pass the
night as well as the day, increased my indisposition not a little; but
the regard for my security did not allow me to seek shelter in the
storeroom wherein I had placed my luggage, and which, being at the back
of the hall, was well protected against cold, and, as it seemed at
least, even against wet. For, not to speak of the oppressive atmosphere
and almost total darkness which prevailed in that close place, in taking
up my residence there I should have exposed myself to the danger of a
sudden attack, while from the hall where I was staying I was enabled to
observe everything which was going on in my house; and through the
screen which protected the opening, close by the side of my couch, I
could observe everybody that entered my yard long before they saw me.
For this reason I preferred this place even to the room on the terrace,
although the latter had the advantage of better air. I may observe that
these upper rooms in general form the private residence of most of the
people in the town who have the luxury of such an upper story.
[Illustration:
1. First segífa, or, as it is called in Songhay, “sífa,” or ante-room.
2. Second segífa, with a staircase, or “tintim,” (3) leading to the
terrace, “garbéne,” and the front room on the terrace, where three of
my people well-armed were constantly keeping watch.
4. Inner court-yard.
5. Hall, with two open entrances, wherein I had my residence by night
and day, on the reed-bed on the right.
6. Store-room capable of being locked up.
7. Covered passage, or corridor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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