Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 4 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
8. Second court-yard, originally intended for the female department,
but where I kept my horse, the surrounding rooms as well as the back
wall of the house being in a state of decay.]
[Sidenote: Monday, September 26th.]
About three o’clock in the morning, while I was lying restlessly on my
couch, endeavouring in vain to snatch a moment’s sleep, the Sheikh Sídi
Áhmed el Bakáy arrived. The music, which was immediately struck up in
front of his house by the women, was ill adapted to procure me rest;
while the arrival of my protector, on whose disposition and power the
success of my whole undertaking and my own personal safety fully
depended, excited my imagination in the highest degree, and thus
contributed greatly to increase my feverish state.
The following day I was so ill as to be quite unable to pay my respects
to my protector, who sent me a message begging me to quiet myself, as I
might rest assured that nothing but my succumbing to illness could
prevent me from safely returning to my native home. Meanwhile, as a
proof of his hospitable disposition, he sent me a handsome present,
consisting of two oxen, two sheep, two large vessels of butter, one
camel load, or “suníye,” of rice, and another of negro-corn, cautioning
me, at the same time, against eating any food which did not come from
his own house. In order to cheer my spirits, he at once begged me to
choose between the three roads by which I wanted to return home—either
through the country of the Fúlbe, or in a boat on the river, or, by
land, through the district of the Tawárek.
As from the first I had been fully aware that neither the disposition of
the natives, and especially that of the present rulers of the country,
the Fúlbe, nor the state of my means, would allow me to proceed
westward, and as I felt persuaded that laying down the course of the
Niger from Timbúktu to Sáy would far outweigh in importance a journey
through the upper country towards the Senegal, I was firm in desiring
from the beginning to be allowed to visit Gógó. For not deeming it
prudent, in order to avoid creating unnecessary suspicion, to lay too
great stress upon navigating the river, I preferred putting forward the
name of the capital of the Songhay empire; as in visiting that place I
was sure that I should see at least the greater part of the river, while
at the same time I should come into contact with the Tawárek, who are
the ruling tribe throughout its whole course.
But the generous offer of my friend was rather premature; and if at that
time I had known that I was still to linger in this quarter for eight
months longer, in my then feeble condition, I should scarcely have been
able to support such an idea; but fortunately Providence does not reveal
to man what awaits him, and he toils on without rest in the dark.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, September 27th.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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