Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 5 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Having rested, after a march of about ten miles, in a dense part of the
forest, which is said to be frequented by lions, we pursued our march in
the afternoon; when, proceeding along the swampy creek of Barkánge,
which was now almost dried up, and passing Tautilt, we pitched our tents
a little beyond the former ámazágh of the chief Wóghda, near a camp of
the Welád-Molúk. The branch of the river at this spot was at present so
shallow, that a flock of sheep was seen fording it towards the island;
waterfowl, also, and especially such birds as live upon fish, were in
immense numbers. Crocodiles were seen in abundance, and caused us some
anxiety for the horses, which were pasturing on the fine rank grass at
the border of the river.
The Tawárek having now left the banks of the river, the black natives
seemed to be more at their ease, and several boats belonging to the
Songhay crossed over to us from the island of Kóra. I had seen the male
portion of the Arab tribe of the Welád-Molúk on a former occasion, but I
here, for the first time, saw their wives and daughters, who, attracted
by curiosity, came in the evening to catch a glimpse of the Christian
stranger, and were roving about my tent, but I did not observe a single
attractive person among them, and, feeling rather sleepy, paid but
little attention to them.
[Sidenote: Friday, May 19th.]
While the other members of our troop kept more inland, I followed the
bank of the river, which here, with its fine open sheet of water,
presents a highly interesting aspect, till I reached our old camping-
ground at Izéberen, from whence I had some difficulty in rejoining my
friends, for the whole of this part of the river is full of backwaters
and creeks, which renders the communication rather difficult to people
who are not well acquainted with the character of the country, but on
this very account they afford rich pasture-grounds after the river has
begun to decrease. Unfortunately, even now, when we had finally entered
upon our journey, the dilatory character of my host remained unaltered,
and, after a march of seven miles, we halted near a small encampment of
the Kél-n-nokúnder, professedly as if we were to start again in the
afternoon, but in reality in order to pass the night there. However, I
was glad that we had at least gone beyond the place which we had reached
on our former abortive start.
The locality was adorned with some luxuriant specimens of duwé, and the
tagelálet, or agáto. Under one of these fine trees, the dense foliage of
which almost reached the ground, I passed the heat of the day in
friendly conversation with some of the peaceable Tolba, who came to have
a chat with me on religious topics. When the cool of the evening set in,
I pitched my tent near the bank of the open branch of the river, which
was girt by a fine border of rank grass; but the river was here broken,
and did not present that noble character which I was wont to admire in
it.
[Sidenote: Saturday, May 20th.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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