Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
The route taken by the Soudân caravan is in part the same as that
traversed by Poncet, in the beginning of the present century, on his
way to Abyssinia. He passed by Sheb and Selimé, and thence striking
across the desart South-east, crossed the Nile at Moscho. We continued
our march from Selimé, almost due South, or with a small variation
to the West. Our party having left Assiût on the 25th May, encamped
on the mountain above it till the 28th, when it proceeded by short
stages towards El-wah. The jelabs commonly pay the Muggrebines for
their protection, or rather for forbearing to plunder them, at the
rate of about a patacke for each camel. I refused them this tribute,
alleging that I was not of the number of merchants who usually trade
to Soudân, but a stranger who was employed on business to the Sultan;
and though my refusal occasioned a slight dispute, the Arabs thought
proper to relinquish their claim. The camels were heavily laden, and
the jelabs travelled slowly, and in detached parties, each consulting
his own convenience, till the 31st of the same month, when we came to
Gebel Rumlie, an high rocky mountain, which we were to descend. It
forms the Western side of the ridge, which constitutes, as it were,
the wall of Egypt, and the Eastern boundary of the low desert, in
which lie the _Oases_. It consists of a coarse _tufa_, and is of
rugged and difficult descent. The road seems in many places to have
been opened by art. We were a full hour in reaching the bottom. The
camels not without great pain carrying their loads on the steep
declivity, and being often in danger of falling.
From the summit of this rock the view lost itself in an extensive
valley, consisting chiefly of rocks and sand, but diversified by
small bushes of the date tree, and other marks of vegetation, near
the spring where we designed to repose. Nothing could exceed the
sterility of the mountain we had passed. Having reached the plain,
it became necessary to unload the camels, and allow them some rest. We
were employed four hours and a half, the following morning, in passing
from the foot of the mountain to Ainé Dizé, the first place where
water is found, and the Northern extremity of the great Oasis. An
hot wind blowing during the meridian hours, the thermometer here
stood during that time under the shade of the tent at 116 degrees.
In marching from Ainé Dizé to Charjé, eight hours were employed.
Excepting a small space near the spring, all is waste. The Chabir, or
leader, chose to notify his approach to the town by beating drums, (two
of which he had borne before him as marks of his office, and as occasion
might require, to collect the travellers when dispersed,) and by other
tokens of joy, as firing small arms, shouting, &c. One of my camels, in
descending the mountain, had fallen and injured his right shoulder,
which, as a cure could not suddenly have place, obliged me to change
him for another.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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