Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
I must confess the first aspect of Jerusalem did not gratify my
expectation. On ascending a hill distant about three miles, this
celebrated city arose to view, seated on an eminence, but surrounded
by others of greater height; and its walls, which remain tolerably
perfect, form the chief object in the approach. They are constructed
of a reddish stone. As the day was extremely cold, and snow began
to fall, the prospect was not so interesting as it might have proved
at a more favourable season.
It is unnecessary to dwell on the description of a city trivial in
innumerable books of travels, but a few miscellaneous remarks shall
be made as they happen to arise.
Mendicants perfectly swarm in the place, allured by the hope of
alms from the piety of the pilgrims. The religious of _Terra Santa_
retain great power, and there is one manufacture that flourishes in
the utmost vigour, namely that of reliques, crucifixes inlaid with
mother of pearl, chaplets, and the like. Yet the church of the holy
sepulchre is so much neglected, that the snow fell into the middle;
the beams, said to be cedar, are falling, and the whole roof is in
a ruinous state.
The Armenian convent is elegant, and so extensive as to present
accommodation for no less than a thousand pilgrims.
During twelve or thirteen days a very deep snow lay upon the
ground. The catholic convent has a large subterraneous cistern, into
which the snow, melting from the roof and other parts, is conveyed,
and supplies the monks with water for a great portion of the year.
The best view of Jerusalem is from the Mount of Olives, on the East
of the city. In front is the chief mosque, which contains, according
to the tradition of the Mohammedans, the body of Solomon. From
the same mount may be discovered, in a clear day, the _Dead sea_,
nearly South-east, reflecting a whitish gleam. The intervening region
appears very rocky.
The _tombs of the kings_, so denominated, are worthy of remark, being
of Grecian sculpture on a hard rock. There are several ornaments
on the sarcophagi of foliage and flowers, and each apartment is
secured with a massive panneled door of stone. Great ravages have
been made here in search of treasure. These tombs have probably been
constructed in the time of Herod and his successors kings of Judea.
A very considerable part of the inhabitants is Christian, between
whom and the Muslims there exists all that infernal hatred which
two divinely revealed religions can alone inspire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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