Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
At about the distance of two hours, or six miles, stands Bethlehem, in
a country happy in soil, air, and water. The latter is conveyed in a
low aqueduct or stone channel, which formerly passed to Jerusalem. The
_fons signatus_ is an exuberant spring: it is received successively
by three large cisterns, one of which is well preserved. In coming
from the cisterns, and at a small distance is seen what is termed
the _deliciæ Solomonis_, a beautiful rivulet which flows murmuring
down the valley, and waters in its course some gardens of excellent
soil. The brinks of this brook are adorned with a variety of
herbage. Olives, vines, and fig trees flourish abundantly in the
neighbourhood. The olive trees are daily decreasing in number, as
they are sacrificed to the personal enmities of the inhabitants,
who meanly seek revenge by sawing down in the night those that
belong to their adversaries. As this tree is of slow growth, it is
seldom replaced. Such is the charity of Christians in the cradle of
Christianity. A more pleasing object arises in the convent here,
which contains under one roof the different tenets of Latins,
Armenians, and Greeks.
About the same distance from Jerusalem, towards the wilderness, is
the convent of St. John, situated in the midst of a romantic country,
studded with vines and olive trees. In the village of St. John and
its district the Mohammedans form the greater part of the population.
The mode of agriculture here pursued may be worthy of observation. As
the country abounds in abrupt inequalities, little walls are erected,
which support the soil, and form narrow terraces. Small ploughs
are used drawn by oxen; and it requires no slight dexterity in the
driver to turn his plough, and avoid damaging the walls. The soil
thus secured is extremely favourable to cultivation. The breed of
black cattle is in general diminutive. Horses are few in number,
and asses resembling the European are chiefly used for travelling.
We may safely estimate the present population of Jerusalem at from
eighteen to twenty thousand. It is governed by an Aga, appointed
by the Pasha of Damascus; but he is allowed so few troops, that all
Palestine may be regarded as in the power of the Arabs. The Christian
women, who abound in Jerusalem, wear white veils, as a distinction
from the Mohammedan, who wear other colours. Arabic is the general
language, except among the Armenians and Greeks.
I left Jerusalem in the commencement of Ramadan, 2d of March
1797. After an uncommonly severe winter, the spring was now
begun. Having rode about three hours, we arrived at Beruth, where we
passed the night; and the following day, about three in the afternoon,
reached Naplosa or _Nablûs_. This capital of the district called
Samaria is populous. The site is remarkable and picturesque, being
between two hills, upon one of which is the castle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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