Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
On the 2d of April 1797 I set out from Acré to Seidé. The road
runs near the sea-side, through a track overgrown with thorns
and thistles. The shore is abrupt, and, as usual, accompanied
with deep water. Some remains of antiquity present themselves,
but so much injured, and so scattered, that it is impossible to
guess their destination. I slept in the house of the Shech in a
small village on the South of the White Promontory. The villages
between Acré and Seidé are thinly scattered, and the population
apparently small. We met several parties of the Pasha’s troops,
both infantry and cavalry, which seemed in excellent order.
On the following morning we passed the White Promontory, a sublime
and picturesque mountain. The road is occasionally cut through the
rock of calcareous stone, as white as chalk. On the right the rock
is covered with bushes: the left is a perpendicular precipice to
the sea, which was calm when I passed; but when it rages the scene
must be tremendous. The tradition of the natives ascribes this road
to Alexander the Great.
We passed the Leontes, now an inconsiderable stream, and easily
fordable: but after rain it swells to a rapid torrent, as is the
case with most of the rivers that fall from the Syrian mountains
to the sea. After crossing four small clear streams, running over
their beds of pure gravel, and the dry courses of some rivulets,
we arrived at Tyre, enchanted with the beautiful, verdure and varied
scenery of the adjacent country.
The magnificent city of Tyre, now corruptly called _Sûr_, is reduced
to a few miserable huts inhabited by fishermen, situated in the
northern extremity of the isle. The isthmus, which joins it to the
continent, is about three quarters of an English mile in length;
the isle itself is of an irregular form, at the broadest part not
exceeding half a mile, and the circumference of the antient city
could not exceed a mile and a half. Except three fragments of granite
columns nothing of antiquity appeared. The isle is now desert and
rocky, destitute even of shrubs and grass. It appears that the port
which is on the North of the isthmus might be restored, though a back
water be wanting. The few peasants or fishermen who frequent the spot
seemed quite unconscious of the classic ground on which they trod.
On the land-side, a little to the South of the isthmus, observed
remains of an aqueduct, which formerly conveyed water to Tyre. Under
its low arches was a considerable quantity of stalactites grown to
a large size. There is also a cistern, somewhat resembling those
of the _fons signatus_ above mentioned, but smaller. The fountain
rises with such force as to turn a mill a little lower down. Here
are a few fruit trees, and a place where coffee is sold.
From the White Promontory to Seidé, antiently Sidon, extends a
narrow plain by the sea-shore. North-east by East appear the summits
of the mountains of Kesrawân, covered with snow. Arrived at Seidé
near sun-set.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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