Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
Seidé is a larger town than Acré. The situation is good and the
air salubrious. There are many Christians and some Jews. The sea here
encroaches on the land. The castle, built by the noted Fakr-el-dîn,
is surrounded by the water. There was formerly a small, but convenient
port, formed by a ridge of rocks, which was filled up by order of
that Emîr, to prevent the Turkish vessels from entering, he being
at war with that power. The castle, styled of St. Louis, which from
an adjacent height on the South commands the city, still remains, as
does a part of the city walls. There is but one gate of the latter;
it fronts North-east. The magnificent palace, built by Fakr-el-dîn,
in the Italian manner, is now ruinous.
An earthquake which destroyed Ladakia in 1796 was felt here, but not
so violently as that which happened in the year 1785, in which many
persons perished, and which was succeeded by a plague which almost
depopulated the place.
A large tessellated pavement of variegated marbles, representing a
horse, festoons, &c. and in some places tolerably perfect for ten
feet in length, remains, close to the sea, on the northern extremity
of the city; a proof of marine encroachment. Many antient granite
columns are worked into the walls, and some stand as posts on the
bridge leading to the fort. Near the gate of the city is a small
square building, which contains the tombs of such of the Emîrs of
the Druses as died when Seidé was in their possession.
Seidé is surrounded with gardens, in which grow a number of mulberry
trees, silk being the chief commodity. The rent of houses and the mode
of living are cheaper than at Acré, and the government more mild
and regular; so that strangers are not liable to insult. Formerly,
there was a considerable commerce carried on with Marseilles, but
since Jezzâr banished the French it has ceased.
On the 6th of April 1797 I left Seidé to visit the district of
Kesrawân, where we arrived in four hours, on horseback, after
travelling through a rugged road, continually ascending, till we
reached the convent of _Mochaulus_, delightfully situated half way
up the mountain, in a romantic country. On passing a bridge over
_Nahr-el-aweli_, observed several fine falls of the stream. In
Kesrawân is also _Mush-Mushé_, a convent of Maronites, which we
reached next morning, after three hours riding. The mountains in
the neighbourhood are covered with fir trees, some of them of large
growth. The vales, and part of the mountains, are planted with vines,
producing excellent wine, white and red. There are also many mulberry
trees, which furnish plenty of good silk, but the natives have not
the common skill to form it into thread. Corn and lentils also abound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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