Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
beginning to address me in that language.) My servant then joined the
conversation, and I escaped discovery. The dress, and apparently the
language of the people of Cossîr, approach more to those of the Eastern
shore of the Arabian gulph, than to those of the Egyptians. They are
armed with the _Jembîa_, a crooked knife, often not less than a yard
long, and commonly a lance. Indeed they altogether appear rather
settlers from the opposite shore than native Egyptians. The commerce in
coffee here is not inconsiderable. Formerly all Upper Egypt was supplied
with coffee by way of Suez and Kahira, but the Beys having laid a very
heavy duty on that commodity, the inhabitants began to import from
Cossîr for themselves, whence they are now supplied with the best
coffee, and at a cheaper rate than from Suez. The town is provided
with excellent fish, and pepper and other spices are brought there
free of duty. Some Abyssinian slaves, transported from Jidda, are
landed there and carried to Kahira, but in very small number. While
I was there, a beautiful girl, of about fifteen, was sold for an
hundred mahbûbs, or about 30l. sterling. There is no plenty of
provisions at Cossîr, there being no cultivable land near the
town. Even the butter they use there is brought from Arabia. The
only good water they have is supplied by the Bedouins from Terfowi,
which is at the distance of three hours. If any quarrel ensue with
them about the price, the town is compelled to use brackish water. We
paid twenty-five medines for the _ghirbé_ of fresh water. I observed
but two vessels lying in the road, and these were lately arrived from
Jidda. The houses in Cossîr are built of clay, and the number of
inhabitants settled there is very small, though the strangers, who
are continually passing and repassing, augment them prodigiously. I
could observe no remain of antiquity within the limits of Cossîr,
and it was not then possible to stray to a distance from it. Finding
the resentment of the people as strong as ever against the Franks,
in consequence of what had happened between them and the English
vessel in 1786, I thought it most advisable to hasten my departure,
though otherwise inclined to have made some excursions by sea,
as to the emerald mine, _maadden ezzummerud_, &c.
13th Nov. at 7½ hours A.M. we left Cossîr, and proceeding by
the strait road, apparently that which Bruce travelled, on the
15th, about five P.M. arrived at the village called Bîr-Ambar,
having met a caravan coming from Ghenné the second day on the
road. The morning of the 16th at sun-rise we proceeded to Ghenné,
which is distant about three hours, having slept at Bîr-Ambar in
the house of a villager, who was very civil and hospitable. There
was an officer at Cossîr, who belonged to the Cashef of Kenné,
but he seemed to have very little authority with the people, being
there only to collect the customs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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