Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798Browne, William George
History
Travels in Africa, Egypt, and Syria, from the year 1792 to 1798
Browne, William George
Egypt -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
Left Assûan the 4th of November 1792, and proceeding rapidly down
the Nile, arrived at Ghenné on the 7th.
CHAP. X.
JOURNEY TO COSSÎR ON THE RED SEA.
_Inducements and danger — Route — Account of Cossîr — Commerce
— Return by another route — Granite rocks and antient road —
Marble quarries — Pretended canal — Earthen ware of Ghenné —
Murder of two Greeks, and subsequent report of the writer’s death._
Arriving on my return at Ghenné (غنه), I could not resist the
impulse of curiosity excited by the late descriptions of curious
marbles, &c. which had been found in that route. It was not difficult
to find the means of passing, though the Bedouins then infested the
road; but I determined to take nothing that could be of importance to
lose, not intending to stay long at Cossîr. For which indeed there
was another motive—An English vessel, commanded, as was said,
by a Captain Mitchell, having three or four years before moored
there, a quarrel had arisen between them and the natives about
a supply of water, which is a commodity furnished at Cossîr not
without extreme difficulty. From a violent contention blows ensued,
and the Captain thought himself justified in firing on the town: in
consequence several individuals were killed, it is said there that
they amounted to fourteen, and much damage done. The natives were
exceedingly exasperated, and swore to sacrifice the first Englishman
that should fall into their hands. I however conceived it possible
to pass undiscovered; and so in fact it happened. Having agreed with
an Arab for two dromedaries and a man, also mounted on a dromedary,
for all which I was to pay fifteen mahbûbs, I left Ghenné at one
in the morning of 8th November 1792, and travelling diligently,
arrived at Cossîr on the 11th before sun-rise. We took the most
northern route, which is not that apparently which Bruce travelled,
(and which seems to be the longest by two or three hours,) as being
the least frequented by robbers. Our course on the first day occupied
twelve hours, the second fifteen, and the third thirteen hours; in
all about forty hours. The principal inhabitants of Cossîr came
successively to compliment us on our arrival. They all scanned me with
an eye of suspicion, and the more so as I could not yet speak the Arabic
fluently. But none so much as an old Sherîf, a considerable man in the
place, who having travelled to Mecca, Constantinople, Bakdad, and other
parts of the Turkish empire, had become acquainted with the various
orders of men, and acquired an intuitive discrimination of character
which very few in that country possess. After the common salutations had
passed, “Are you not a Frank?” said he.—“No,” replied I.—“But of Frank
origin?”—“No,” said I, “I am a Georgian by birth, but have passed so
short a time in Constantinople, that I believe I cannot speak Turkish
much better than I do Arabic;” (for I knew he spoke a little, and was
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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