The governor of this place was a negro, who had formerly been a slave.
He received the travellers with the greatest kindness, persuaded them to
leave the vessel, and gave them a residence, promising camels for the
further journey by land. Although they were somewhat annoyed by the
great curiosity of the inhabitants, their residence was so agreeable, and
offered the naturalists so many facilities for making collections, that
they remained nearly four months. “We had one opportunity,” says
Niebuhr, “of learning their ideas of the benefits to be derived from
medicine. Mr. Cramer had given a scribe an emetic which operated with
extreme violence. The Arabs, being struck at its wonderful effects,
resolved all to take the same excellent remedy, and the reputation of our
friend’s skill thus became very high among them. The Emir of the port
sent one day for him; and, as he did not go immediately, the Emir soon
after sent a saddled horse to our gate. Mr. Cramer, supposing that this
horse was intended to bear him to the Emir, was going to mount him, when
he was told that this was the patient he was to cure. We luckily found
another physician in our party; our Swedish servant had been with the
hussars in his native country, and had acquired some knowledge of the
diseases of horses. He offered to cure the Emir’s horse, and succeeded.
The cure rendered him famous, and he was afterward sent for to human
patients.”
Having satisfied themselves by this time that there was no danger in
travelling in Yemen, they did not wait for the departure of any large
caravan, but, on February 20, 1763, set out from Loheia, mounted on
asses, and made their way across the _Tehama_, or low country, toward the
large town of Beit el-Fakih, which stands near the base of the
coffee-bearing hills. They wore dresses somewhat similar to those of the
natives, a long shirt, reaching nearly to the feet, a girdle, and a
mantle over the shoulders. The country was barren, but there were many
villages, and at intervals of every few miles they found coffee-houses,
or, rather, huts, for the refreshment of travellers. After having
suffered no further inconvenience than from the brackish water, which is
drawn from wells more than a hundred feet deep, they reached Beit
el-Fakih in five days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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