“Abbood, for such was his name, though I never met the like before or
after in Arabia proper, however common it may be in Syria and Lebanon,
took a different and more efficacious mode of espionage than
’Abd-el-Hameed had done before him. Affecting to consider us Mahometans,
and learned ones too, he entered at once on religious topics, on the true
character of Islam, its purity or corruptions, and inquired much after
the present teaching and usages of Damascus and the North, evidently in
the view of catching us in our words. But he had luckily encountered his
match; for every citation of the Koran we replied with two, and proved
ourselves intimately acquainted with the ‘greater’ and the ‘lesser’
polytheism of foreign nations and heterodox Mahometans, with the
commentaries of Beydowee and the tales of the Hadeeth, till our visitor,
now won over to confidence, launched out full sail on the sea of
discussion, and thereby rendered himself equally instructive and
interesting to men who had nothing more at heart than to learn the tenets
of the sect from one of its most zealous professors, nay, a Zelator in
person. In short, he ended by becoming half a friend, and his regrets at
our being, like other Damascenes, yet in the outer porch of darkness,
were tempered by a hope, which he did not disguise, of at least putting a
window in our porch for its better enlightenment.”
Next day, in the forenoon, while the travellers were sauntering about the
market-place, they met the minister ’Abd-el-’Azeez, who had that morning
returned to the capital. With a smiling face and an air of great
benignity he took them aside, and informed them the king did not consider
Ri’ad a proper field for their medical skill; that they had better at
once continue their journey to Hofhoof, whither Aboo-’Eysa should conduct
them straightway; and that the king would furnish each of them with a
camel, a new suit of clothes, and some money. To these arguments
Palgrave could only answer that he greatly desired the profit to be
expected from a few weeks of medical practice in Ri’ad, since his success
there would give him an immediate reputation in Hofhoof, while his
departure might deprive him of all reputation at the latter place. The
minister promised to present his plea to Feysul, but gave him no hope of
a favorable answer. The order to leave was repeated, and then, as a last
experiment, Palgrave sent to two of the ministers a pound of the fragrant
wood, which is burned as pastilles in Arabia, and is highly prized by the
upper classes. The next day he received permission to remain longer in
Ri’ad and exercise his profession. He thereupon took another residence,
not so near the palace, and within convenient reach of one of the city
gates. Before describing the place he gives the following account of the
famous Arabian coffee:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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