Palgrave gives the following picturesque description of the Wahabee
capital: “We wrap our headgear, like true Arabs, round our chins, put on
our grave-looking black cloaks, take each a long stick in hand, and
thread the narrow streets intermediate between our house and the
market-place at a funeral pace, and speaking in an undertone. Those whom
we meet salute us, or we salute them; be it known that the lesser number
should always be the first to salute the greater, he who rides him who
walks, he who walks him who stands, the stander the sitter, and so forth;
but never should a man salute a woman; difference of age or even of rank
between men does not enter into the general rules touching the priority
of salutation. If those whom we have accosted happen to be acquaintances
or patients, or should they belong to the latitudinarian school, our
salutation is duly returned. But if, by ill fortune, they appertain to
the strict and high orthodox party, an under-look with a half scowl in
silence is their only answer to our greeting. Whereat we smile,
Malvolio-like, and pass on.
“At last we reach the market-place; it is full of women and peasants,
selling exactly what we want to buy, besides meat, firewood, milk, etc.;
around are customers, come on errands like our own. We single out a
tempting basket of dates, and begin haggling with the unbeautiful
Phyllis, seated beside her rural store. We find the price too high. ‘By
him who protects Feysul,’ answers she, ‘I am the loser at that price.’
We insist. ‘By Him who shall grant Feysul a long life, I cannot bate
it,’ she replies. We have nothing to oppose to such tremendous
asseverations, and accede or pass on, as the case may be.
“Half of the shops, namely, those containing grocery, household articles
of use, shoemakers’ stalls and smithies, are already open and busily
thronged. For the capital of a strongly centralized empire is always
full of strangers, come will they nill they on their several affairs.
But around the butchers’ shops awaits the greatest human and canine
crowd. My readers, I doubt not, know that the only licensed scavengers
throughout the East are the dogs. Nedjeans are great flesh-eaters, and
no wonder, considering the cheapness of meat (a fine fat sheep costs at
most five shillings, often less) and the keenness of mountaineer
appetites. I wish that the police regulations of the city would enforce
a little more cleanliness about these numerous shambles; every refuse is
left to cumber the ground at scarce two yards’ distance. But dogs and
dry air much alleviate the nuisance—a remark I made before at Ha’yel and
Bereydah; it holds true for all Central Arabia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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