“The berry, thus qualified for foreign use, quits its native land on
three main lines of export—that of the Red Sea, that of the inner Hedjaz,
and that of Kaseem. The terminus of the first line is Egypt, of the
second Syria, of the third Nedjed and Shomer. Hence Egypt and Syria are,
of all countries without the frontiers of Arabia, the best supplied with
its specific produce, though under the restrictions already stated; and
through Alexandria or the Syrian seaports, Constantinople and the North
obtain their diminished share. But this last stage of transport seldom
conveys the genuine article, except by the intervention of private
arrangements and personal friendship or interest. Where mere sale and
traffic are concerned, substitution of an inferior quality, or an
adulteration almost equivalent to substitution, frequently takes place in
the different storehouses of the coast, till whatever Mokha-marked coffee
leaves them for Europe and the West, is often no more like the real
offspring of the Yemen plant than the log-wood preparations of a London
fourth-rate retail wine-seller resemble the pure libations of an Oporto
vineyard.
“The second species of coffee, by some preferred to that of Yemen, but in
my poor opinion inferior to it, is the growth of Abyssinia; its berry is
larger, and of a somewhat different and a less heating flavor. It is,
however, an excellent species; and whenever the rich land that bears it
shall be permitted by man to enjoy the benefits of her natural fertility,
it will probably become an object of extensive cultivation and commerce.
With this stops, at least in European opinion and taste, the list of
coffee, and begins the list of beans.
“While we were yet in the Djowf I described with sufficient minuteness
how the berry is prepared for actual use; nor is the process any way
varied in Nedjed or other Arab lands. But in Nedjed an additional
spicing of saffron, cloves, and the like, is still more common; a fact
which is easily explained by the want of what stimulus tobacco affords
elsewhere. A second consequence of non-smoking among the Arabs is the
increased strength of their coffee decoctions in Nedjed, and the
prodigious frequency of their use; to which we must add the larger
‘finjans,’ or coffee-cups, here in fashion. So sure are men, when
debarred of one pleasure or excitement, to make it up by another.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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