“Hofhoof, whose ample circuit contained during the last generation about
thirty thousand inhabitants, now dwindled to twenty-three or twenty-four
thousand, is divided into three quarters or districts. The general form
of the town is that of a large oval. The public square, an oblong space
of about three hundred yards in length by a fourth of the same in width,
occupies the meeting point of these quarters; the Kôt lies on its
northeast, the Rifey’eeyah on the northwest and west, and the Na’athar on
the east and south. In this last quarter was our present home; moreover,
it stood in the part farthest removed from the Kôt and its sinister
influences, while it was also sufficiently distant from the overturbulent
neighborhood of the Rifey’eeyah, the centre of anti-Wahabee movements,
and the name of which alone excited distrust and uneasiness in Nedjean
minds.
“The Kôt itself is a vast citadel, surrounded by a deep trench, with
walls and towers of unusual height and thickness, earth-built, with an
occasional intermixture of stone, the work of the old Carmathian rulers;
it is nearly square, being about one-third of a mile in length by
one-quarter in breadth.
“On the opposite side of the square, and consequently belonging to the
Rifey’eeyah, is the vaulted market-place, or ‘Keysareeyah,’ a name by
which constructions of this nature must henceforth be called up to Mascat
itself, though how this Latinism found its way across the peninsula to
lands which seem to have had so little commerce with the Roman or
Byzantine empires, I cannot readily conjecture. This Keysareeyah is in
form a long barrel-vaulted arcade, with a portal at either end; the
folding doors that should protect the entrances have here in Hofhoof been
taken away, elsewhere they are always to be found. The sides are
composed of shops, set apart in general for wares of cost, or at least
what is here esteemed costly; thus, weapons, cloth embroidery, gold and
silver ornament, and analogous articles, are the ordinary stock-in-hand
in the Keysareeyah. Around it cluster several alleys, roofed with
palm-leaves against the heat, and tolerably symmetrical; in the shops we
may see the merchandise of Bahreyn, Oman, Persia, and India exposed for
sale, mixed with the manufactured produce of the country; workshops,
smithies, carpenters’ and shoemakers’ stalls, and the like, are here
also. In the open square itself stand countless booths for the sale of
dates, vegetables, wood, salted locusts, and small ware of many kinds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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