“The Rifey’eeyah, or noble quarter, covers a considerable extent, and is
chiefly composed of tolerable, in some places of even handsome,
dwellings. The comparative elegance of domestic architecture in Hofhoof
is due to the use of the arch, which, after the long interval from Ma’an
to Hasa, now at last reappears, and gives to the constructions of this
province a lightness and a variety unknown in the monotonous and heavy
piles of Nedjed and Shomer. Another improvement is that the walls,
whether of earth or stone, or of both mixed, as is often the case, are
here very generally coated with fine white plaster, much resembling the
‘chunam’ of Southern India; ornament, too, is aimed at about the doorways
and the ogee-headed windows, and is sometimes attained.
“The Na’athar is the largest quarter; it forms, indeed, a good half of
the town, and completes its oval. In it every description of dwelling is
to be seen—for rich and poor, for high and low, palace or hovel. Here,
too, but near the Kôt, has the pious policy of Feysul constructed the
great mosque.
“But perhaps my reader, after accompanying me thus far, may feel thirsty,
for the heat, even in December, is almost oppressive, and the sky
cloudless as though it were June or July. So let us turn aside into that
grassy plantation, where half a dozen buffaloes are cooling their ugly
hides in a pool, and drink a little from the source that supplies it.
When behold! the water is warm, almost hot. Do not be surprised; all the
fountain sources and wells of Hasa are so, more or less; in some one can
hardly bear to plunge one’s hand; others are less above the average
temperature, while a decidedly sulphurous taste is now and then
perceptible. In fact, from the extreme north of this province down to
its southern-most frontier, this same sign of subterranean fire is
everywhere to be found. The rocks, too, are here very frequently of tufa
and basalt, another mark of igneous agency.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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