“From our town supper we returned by torchlight to the castle; our
baggage, no great burden, had been already taken down to the sea gate,
where stood two of the captain’s men waiting for us. In their company we
descended to the beach, and then with garments tucked up to the waist
waded to the vessel, not without difficulty, for the tide was rapidly
coming in, and we had almost to swim for it. At last we reached the ship
and scrambled up her side; most heartily glad was I to find myself at sea
once more on the other side of Arabia.”
After a slow voyage of three days Palgrave reached Bahreyn, the
headquarters of the pearl fisheries, and established himself in the
little town of Moharrek, to wait for the arrival of Aboo-’Eysa before
undertaking his projected exploration of Oman. He and his companion
enjoyed a grateful feeling of rest and security in this seaport among the
sailors, to whom all varieties of foreigners were well known, and who,
having no prejudices, felt no suspicion.
On January 9, 1863, Aboo-’Eysa arrived, and after much earnest
consultation the following plan was adopted: Aboo-’Eysa was to send
twenty loads of the best Hasa dates, and a handsome mantle, as presents
to the Sultan of Oman, with three additional mantles for the three chiefs
whose territories intervened between Bahreyn and Muscat. Palgrave was to
accompany these gifts, under his character of a skilled physician in
quest of certain rare and mysterious herbs of Oman. Meanwhile,
Aboo-’Eysa and Barakat would take passage for Aboo-Shahr (Busheer), in
Persia, where the former would be employed for three months in making up
his next caravan of Mecca pilgrims. Here Palgrave was to rejoin them
after his journey.
In place of Barakat his companion was a curious individual named Yoosef,
whom Aboo-’Eysa had rescued from misery and maintained in a decent
condition. He was a native of Hasa, half a jester and half a knave;
witty, reckless, hare brained to the last degree, full of jocose or
pathetic stories, of poetry, traditions, and fun of every description.
When everything had been arranged the four parted company, Palgrave and
his new companion sailing for the port of Bedaa’, on the Arabian coast,
where resided the first of the three chiefs whose protection it was
necessary to secure. They reached there after a cruise of five or six
days, finding the place very barren and desolate, with scarcely a tree or
a garden; but, as the chief said to Palgrave, “We are all, from the
highest to the lowest, the slaves of one master—Pearl.” The bay contains
the best pearl-fishery on the coast, and the town depends for its
existence on the trade in these gems.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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