The chief was intelligent and friendly, and appears to have interposed no
obstacle to the proposed journey into the interior, but Palgrave decided
to go on by sea to the town of Sharjah, on the northern side of the
peninsula of Oman. Embarking again on February 6th, the vessel was
driven by violent winds across to the Persian shore, and ten days elapsed
before it was possible to reach Sharjah. Here, again, although their
reception was hospitable, the travellers gave up their land journey and
re-embarked in another vessel to pass around the peninsula, through the
Straits of Ormuz, and land on the southern shore, in the territory of
Muscat.
In three days they reached the island of Ormuz, of which Palgrave says:
“I was not at all sorry to have an opportunity of visiting an island once
so renowned for its commerce, and of which its Portuguese occupants used
to say, ‘that, were the world a golden ring Ormuz would be the diamond
signet.’ The general appearance of Ormuz indicates an extinguished
volcano, and such I believe it really is; the circumference consists of a
wide oval wall, formed by steep crags, fire-worn and ragged; these
enclose a central basin, where grow shrubs and grass; the basaltic slopes
of the outer barrier run in many places clean down into the sea, amid
splinter-like pinnacles and fantastic crags of many colors, like those
which lava often assumes on cooling. Between the west and north a long
triangular promontory, low and level, advances to a considerable
distance, and narrows into a neck of land, which is terminated by a few
rocks and a strong fortress, the work of Portuguese builders, but worthy
of taking rank among Roman ruins—so solid are the walls, so compact the
masonry and well-selected brickwork, against which three long centuries
of sea-storm have broken themselves in vain. The greater part of the
promontory itself is covered with ruins. Here stood the once thriving
town, now a confused extent of desolate heaps, amid which the vestiges of
several fine dwellings, of baths, and of a large church may yet be
clearly made out. Close by the fort cluster a hundred or more wretched
earth-hovels, the abode of fishermen or shepherds, whose flocks pasture
within the crater; one single shed, where dried dates, raisins, and
tobacco are exposed for sale, is all that now remains of the trade of
Ormuz.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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