How true is it that no two travellers see things with the same eyes.
Doubtless both these distinguished travellers are reasonably correct in
their descriptions, but summed up their impressions from opposite
stand-points in a topographical sense; a common enough mistake in Asia,
where the name of a place often indicates, equally accurately, a large
scope of country and the central spot in it. In Central Asia, for
example, there is Merv, which is the name of a city, and also of the
large fertile oasis in which it is situated; also Herat, meaning a broad
area of oases, with a population of probably half a million people, in
which the fortress-city Herat stands, no less than the city itself.
Important political changes had taken place since Palgrave’s visit. The
rule of the Wahabees had been overthrown in Jôf, and the only
representatives of staple authority found there were a Sheykh and six
soldiers, who represented the authority of Mohammed ibn Rashid, Emir of
Jebel Shammar, with his seat of government at Hail.
From Jôf the travellers proceeded toward Hail, crossing the dreaded
Nefood, of which they give a very interesting, and far less gloomy,
account than did Palgrave. They, however, crossed it in January, while
Palgrave crossed it in midsummer; so that, in the case of the Nefood, as
with Jôf, the apparently conflicting accounts are doubtless both fairly
accurate, the one describing the desert in winter, the other in summer.
On January 12th, the travellers found themselves on the edge of the
desert.
“At half-past three o’clock we saw a red streak on the horizon before us,
which rose and gathered as we approached it, stretching out east and west
in an unbroken line. It might at first have been taken for an effect of
mirage, but on coming nearer we found it broken into billows, and but for
its red color not unlike a stormy sea seen from the shore, for it rose
up, as the sea seems to rise, when the waves are high, above the level of
the land. Somebody called out ‘Nefûd,’ and though for a while we were
incredulous, we were soon convinced. What surprised us was its color,
that of rhubarb and magnesia, nothing at all like what we had expected.
Yet the Nefûd it was, the great red desert of Central Arabia. In a few
minutes we had cantered up to it, and our mares were standing with their
feet in its first waves.
“January 13th.—We have been all day in the Nefûd, which is interesting
beyond our hopes, and charming into the bargain.” After taking issue
with Mr. Palgrave, who, Lady Blunt thinks, overlooked its brighter side,
the narrator continues her own observations thus:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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