“The thing that strikes one first about the Nefûd is its color. It is
not white like the sand dunes we passed yesterday, nor yellow as the sand
is in parts of the Egyptian desert, but a really bright red, almost
crimson in the morning, when it is wet with dew. The sand is rather
coarse, but absolutely pure, without admixture of any foreign substance,
pebble, grit, or earth, and exactly the same in tint and texture
everywhere. It is, however, a great mistake to suppose it barren. The
Nefûd, on the contrary, is better wooded and richer in pasture than any
part of the desert we have passed since leaving Damascus. It is tufted
all over with ghada bushes, and bushes of another kind called _yerta_,
which at this time of the year, when there are no leaves, is exactly like
a thickly matted vine.
“There are, besides, several kinds of camel pasture, especially one new
to us, called _adr_, on which they say sheep can feed for a month without
wanting water, and more than one kind of grass. Both camels and mares
are therefore pleased with the place, and we are delighted with the
abundance of firewood for our camps. Wilfrid says that the Nefûd has
solved for him at last the mystery of horse-breeding in Central Arabia.
In the hard desert there is nothing a horse can eat, but here there is
plenty. The Nefûd accounts for everything. Instead of being the
terrible place it has been described by the few travellers who have seen
it, it is in reality the home of the Bedouins during a great part of the
year. Its only want is water, for it contains but few wells; all along
the edge it is thickly inhabited, and Radi tells us that in the spring,
when the grass is green after rain, the Bedouins care nothing for water,
as their camels are in milk, and they go for weeks without it, wandering
far into the interior of the sand desert.”
In the desert of sand the travellers found many curious hollows, which
the native guide called fulj. Some of these holes were a quarter of a
mile in diameter, and as much as 230 feet deep. They were chiefly of
horse-hoof shape. They took observations, and at one point on the desert
found the elevation to be 3,300 feet above sea-level. After seven days
in the Nefûd, the last two of which tried the endurance of men and
beasts, the party reached the oasis of Jobba, which is described as being
one of the most curious, as also most beautiful, places in the world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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