The important town of Neswah, at the western base of the Jebel Akdar, or
Green Mountains, is a short day’s journey from Minnà. On arriving there
Wellsted was received in a friendly manner by the governor, and lodged,
for the first time since leaving Muscat, in a substantial house. He was
allowed to visit the fortress, which, in that region, is considered
impregnable. He was admitted by an iron door of great strength, and,
ascending through a vaulted passage, passed through six others equally
massive before reaching the summit. The form of the fort is circular,
its diameter being nearly one hundred yards, and to the height of ninety
feet it has been filled up by a solid mass of earth and stones. Seven or
eight wells have been bored through this, from several of which they
obtain a plentiful supply of water, while those which are dry serve as
magazines for their shot and ammunition. A wall forty feet high
surrounds the summit, making the whole height of the fortress one hundred
and fifty feet. It is a work of extraordinary labor, and from its
appearance probably of considerable antiquity; but no certain
intelligence could be obtained on this point.
On Christmas-day Wellsted left Neswah on an excursion to the celebrated
Green Mountains. The Shekh of Tanuf, the first village where he
encamped, endeavored in every possible way to dissuade him from
undertaking the journey; but his resolute manner and a few gifts overcame
the difficulty. Mounted on strong asses, the party commenced ascending a
precipitous ridge by a track so narrow that they seemed at times to be
suspended over precipices of unknown depth. On the second day they
reached the village of Seyk. “By means of steps,” he says, “we descended
the steep side of a narrow glen, about four hundred feet in depth,
passing in our progress several houses perched on crags or other
acclivities, their walls built up in some places so as to appear but a
continuation of the precipice. These small, snug, compact-looking
dwellings have been erected by the natives one above the other, so that
their appearance from the bottom of the glen, hanging as it were in
mid-air, affords to the spectator a most novel and interesting picture.
Here we found, amid a great variety of fruits and trees, pomegranates,
citrons, almonds, nutmegs, and walnuts, with coffee-bushes and vines. In
the summer, these together must yield a delicious fragrance; but it was
now winter, and they were leafless. Water flows in many places from the
upper part of the hills, and is received at the lower in small
reservoirs, whence it is distributed all over the face of the country.
From the narrowness of this glen, and the steepness of its sides, only
the lower part of it receives the warmth of the sun’s rays for a short
period of the day; and even at the time of our arrival we found it so
chilly, that, after a short halt, we were very happy to continue our
journey.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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