A rest of four weeks at Sib recruited the traveller’s strength, and he
determined to make another effort to reach Central Arabia. He therefore
applied to the Sultan for an escort to Bireimah, the first town of the
Wahabees, beyond the northern frontier of Oman. The Sultan sent a guide,
but objected to the undertaking, as word had just arrived that the
Wahabees were preparing to invade his territory. Wellsted, however, was
not willing to give up his design without at least making the attempt.
He followed the coast, north of Muscat, as far as the port of Suweik,
where he was most hospitably received by the wife of the governor, Seyd
Hilal, who was absent. “A huge meal, consisting of a great variety of
dishes, sufficient for thirty or forty people, was prepared in his
kitchen, and brought to us, on large copper dishes, twice a day during
the time we remained. On these occasions there was a great profusion of
blue and gilt chinaware, cut glass dishes, and decanters containing
sherbet instead of wine.”
“The Shekh,” Wellsted continues, “after his return, usually spent the
evening with us. On one occasion he was accompanied by a professional
storyteller, who appeared to be a great favorite with him. ‘Whenever I
feel melancholy or out of order,’ said he, ‘I send for this man, who very
soon restores me to my wonted spirits.’ From the falsetto tone in which
the story was chanted, I could not follow the thread of the tale, and,
upon my mentioning this to him, the Shekh very kindly sent me the
manuscript, of which the reciter had availed himself. With little
variation I found it to be the identical Sindbad the Sailor, so familiar
to the readers of the Arabian Nights. I little thought, when first I
perused these fascinating tales in my own language, that it would ever be
my lot to listen to the original in a spot so congenial and so remote.”
[Picture: A valley in Oman]
Leaving Suweik on March 4th, Wellsted was deserted by his camel-men at
the end of the first day’s march, but succeeded in engaging others at a
neighboring village. The road, which at first led between low hills, now
entered a deep mountain-gorge, inclosed by abrupt mountains of rock
several thousand feet in height.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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