Like Burckhardt, he assumed an Oriental character at the start, and
during the voyage from Southampton to Alexandria was supposed to be a
Persian prince. For two or three months he laboriously applied himself
in Egypt to the necessary religious studies, joined a society of
dervishes, under the name of Shekh Abdullah, kept the severe fast of
Ramazan, and familiarized himself with all the orthodox forms of
ablution, prayer, and prostration. He gave himself out to be an Afghan
by birth, but long absent from his native country, a character which was
well adapted to secure him against detection. During his stay in Cairo
he made the acquaintance of a boy named Mohammed el-Basyuni, a native of
Mecca, who became his companion for the journey, and who seems not to
have suspected his real character until the pilgrimage was over.
Having purchased a tent and laid in an ample supply of provisions, with
about four hundred dollars in money, he went to Suez about July 1st, with
the avowed purpose of proceeding to Mecca by way of Jedda, yet with the
secret intention of visiting Medina on the way. Here he became
acquainted with a company of pilgrims, whose good-will he secured by
small loans of money, and joined them in taking passage in a large Arab
boat bound for Yembo. The vessel was called the Golden Wire. “Immense
was the confusion,” says Burton, “on the eventful day of our departure.
Suppose us standing on the beach, on the morning of a fiery July day,
carefully watching our hurriedly-packed goods and chattels, surrounded by
a mob of idlers who are not too proud to pick up waifs and strays, while
pilgrims rush about apparently mad, and friends are weeping,
acquaintances vociferating adieux, boatmen demanding fees, shopmen
claiming debts, women shrieking and talking with inconceivable power,
children crying—in short, for an hour or so we were in the thick of a
human storm. To confound confusion, the boatmen have moored their skiff
half a dozen yards away from the shore, lest the porters should be unable
to make more than double their fare from the pilgrims.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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