“A fortnight and more went by, and found us still in the Djowf, ‘honored
guests’ in Arab phrase, and well rested from the bygone fatigues of the
desert. Ghafil’s dwelling was still, so to speak, our official home; but
there were two other houses where we were still more at our ease; that of
Dafee, the same who along with Ghafil came to meet us on our first
arrival; and that of Salim, a respectable and, in his way, a literary old
man, our near neighbor, and surrounded by a large family of fine
strapping youths, all of them brought up more or less in the fear of
Allah and in good example. Hither we used to retire when wearied of
Ghafil and his like, and pass a quiet hour in their k’hawah, reciting or
hearing Arab poetry, talking over the condition of the country and its
future prospects, discussing points of morality, or commenting on the
ways and fashions of the day.”
The important question for the travellers was how they should get to
Djebel Shomer, the great fertile oasis to the south, under the rule of
the famous Prince Telal. The terrible _Nefood_, or sand-passes, which
the Arabs themselves look upon with dread, must be crossed, and it was
now the middle of summer. The hospitable people of the Djowf begged
Palgrave and his friends to remain until September, and they probably
would have been delayed for some time but for a lucky chance. The Azzam
tribe of Bedouins, which had been attacked by Prince Telal, submitted,
and a dozen of their chiefs arrived at the Djowf, on their way to Djebel
Shomer, where they purposed to win Telal’s good graces by tendering him
their allegiance in his very capital. Hamood received them and lodged
them for several days, while they rested from their past fatigues, and
prepared themselves for what yet lay before them. Some inhabitants of
the Djowf, whose business required their presence at Ha’yel, were to join
the party. “Hamood sent for us,” Palgrave continues, “and gave us notice
of this expedition, and on our declaring that we desired to profit by it,
he handed us a scrap of paper, addressed to Telal himself, wherein he
certified that we had duly paid the entrance fee exacted from strangers
on their coming within the limits of Shomer rule, and that we were indeed
respectable individuals, worthy of all good treatment. We then, in
presence of Hamood, struck our bargain with one of the band for a couple
of camels, whose price, including all the services of their master as
guide and companion for ten days of July travelling, was not extravagant
either; it came up to just a hundred and ten piastres, equivalent to
eighteen or nineteen shillings of English money.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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