“Coffee was brought and pipes lighted. Meantime Ebn-Rasheed renewed his
interrogatory, skilfully throwing out side remarks, now on the government
of Syria, now on that of Egypt, then on the Bedouins to the north of
Djowf, or on the tribes of Hedjaz, or on the banks of the Euphrates, thus
to gain light whence and to what end we had in fact come. Next he
questioned us on medicine, perhaps to discover whether we had the right
professional tone; then on horses, about which same noble animals we
affected an ignorance unnatural and very unpardonable in an Englishman;
but for which I hope afterward to make amends to my readers. All was in
vain; and after a full hour our noble friend had only managed by his
cleverness to get himself farther off the right track than he had been at
the outset. He felt it, and determined to let matters have their own
course, and to await the result of time. So he ended by assuring us of
his entire confidence and protection, offering us, to boot, a lodging on
the palace grounds. But this we declined, being desirous of studying the
country as it was in itself, not through the medium of a court
atmosphere; so we begged that an abode might be assigned us as near the
market-place as possible; and this he promised, though evidently rather
put out by our independent ways.
“Excellent water-melons, ready peeled and cut up, with peaches hardly
ripe, for it was the beginning of the season, were now brought in, and we
all partook in common. This was the signal for breaking up; Telal
renewed his proffers of favor and patronage; and we were at last
reconducted to our lodgings by one of the royal guard.
“Seyf now went in search of a permanent dwelling-place wherein to install
us; and, before evening, succeeded in finding one situated in a street
leading at right angles to the market, and at no unreasonable distance
from the palace. Every door was provided with its own distinct lock; the
keys here are made of iron, and in this respect Ha’yel has the better of
any other Arab town it was my chance to visit, where the keys were
invariably wooden, and thus very liable to break and get out of order.
“The court-yard was soon thronged with visitors, some from the palace,
others from the town. One had a sick relation, whom he begged us to come
and see, another some personal ailment, a third had called out of mere
politeness or curiosity; in short, men of all conditions and of all ages,
but for the most part open and friendly in manner, so that we could
already anticipate a very speedy acquaintance with the town and whatever
it contained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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