“The nature of our occupations now led to a certain daily routine, though
it was often agreeably diversified by incidental occurrences. Perhaps a
leaf taken at random from my journal, now regularly kept, may serve to
set before my readers a tolerable sample of our ordinary course of life
and society at Ha’yel, while it will at the same time give a more
distinct idea of the town and people than we have yet supplied.
“Be it, then, the 10th of August, whose jotted notes I will put together
and fill up the blanks. I might equally have taken the 9th or the 11th,
they are all much the same; but the day I have chosen looks a little the
closer written of the two, and for that sole reason I prefer giving it.
“On that day, then, in 1862, about a fortnight after our establishment at
Ha’yel, and when we were, in consequence, fully inured to our town
existence, Seleem Abou Mahmood-el-’Eys and Barakat-esh-Shamee, that is,
my companion and myself, rose, not from our beds, for we had none, but
from our roof-spread carpets, and took advantage of the silent hour of
the first faint dawn, while the stars yet kept watch in the sky over the
slumbering inhabitants of Shomer, to leave the house for a cool and
undisturbed walk ere the sun should arise and man go forth unto his work
and to his labor. We locked the outer door, and then passed into the
still twilight gloom down the cross-street leading to the market-place,
which we next followed up to its farther or southwestern end, where large
folding-gates separate it from the rest of the town. The wolfish
city-dogs, whose bark and bite, too, render walking the streets at night
a rather precarious business, now tamely stalked away in the gloaming,
while here and there a crouching camel, the packages yet on his back, and
his sleeping driver close by, awaited the opening of the warehouse at
whose door they had passed the night. Early though it was, the market
gates were already unclosed, and the guardian sat wakeful in his niche.
On leaving the market we had yet to go down a broad street of houses and
gardens cheerfully intermixed, till at last we reached the western wall
of the town, or, rather, of the new quarter added by ’Abdallah, where the
high portal between round flanking towers gave us issue on the open
plain, blown over at this hour by a light gale of life and coolness. To
the west, but some four or five miles distant, rose the serrated mass of
Djebel Shomer, throwing up its black fantastic peaks, now reddened by the
reflected dawn, against the lead-blue sky. Northward the same chain
bends round till it meets the town, and then stretches away for a length
of ten or twelve days’ journey, gradually losing in height on its
approach to Meshid ’Alee and the valley of the Euphrates. On our south
we have a little isolated knot of rocks, and far off the extreme ranges
of Djebel Shomer, or ’Aja, to give it its historical name, intersected by
the broad passes that lead on in the same direction to Djebel Solma.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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