Behind us lies the capital. Telal’s palace, with its high oval keep,
houses, gardens, walls, and towers, all coming out black against the
ruddy bars of eastern light, and behind, a huge pyramidal peak almost
overhanging the town, and connected by lower rocks with the main mountain
range to north and south, those stony ribs that protect the central heart
of the kingdom. In the plain itself we can just distinguish by the
doubtful twilight several blackish patches irregularly scattered over its
face, or seen as though leaning upward against its craggy verge; these
are the gardens and country houses of ’Obeyd and other chiefs, besides
hamlets and villages, such as Kefar and ’Adwah, with their groves of palm
and ‘ithel’ (the Arab larch), now blended in the dusk. One solitary
traveller on his camel, a troop of jackals sneaking off to their rocky
cavern, a few dingy tents of Shomer Bedouins, such are the last details
of the landscape. Far away over the southern hills beams the glory of
Canopus, and announces a new Arab year; the pole-star to the north lies
low over the mountain tops.
“We pace the pebble-strown flat to the south till we leave behind us the
length of the town wall, and reach the little cluster of rocks already
mentioned. We scramble up to a sort of niche near its summit, whence, at
a height of a hundred feet or more, we can overlook the whole extent of
the plain and wait the sunrise. Yet before the highest crags of Shomer
are gilt with its first rays, or the long giant shadows of the easterly
chain have crossed the level, we see groups of peasants, who, driving
their fruit and vegetable-laden asses before them, issue like little
bands of ants from the mountain gorges around, and slowly approach on the
tracks converging to the capital. Horsemen from the town ride out to the
gardens, and a long line of camels on the westerly Medina road winds up
toward Ha’yel. We wait ensconced in our rocky lookout and enjoy the view
till the sun has risen, and the coolness of the night air warms rapidly
into the sultry day; it is time to return. So we quit our solitary perch
and descend to the plain, where, keeping in the shadow of the western
fortifications, we regain the town gate and thence the market.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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