Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
At a distance from those, and near the Dervaze Bokhara, are the
extensive ruins of the once really magnificent Medresse Hanym, which a
Chinese princess, wife of Timour, erected out of her private purse. It
is said at one time to have accommodated a thousand students, each of
whom received from the Vakf (foundation) the annual sum of a hundred
Tilla. The sum may be regarded as an Oriental one; an evidence,
nevertheless, of bygone splendour appears in its ruins, of which three
walls and the fore-front or frontispiece (Pishtak) still exist; the
latter with its towers and portal, that might serve for a model, has
its pavement completely covered with mosaic made of earth, the
composition and colouring of which are of incomparable beauty, and so
firmly cemented that it occasioned me indescribable trouble to cut
away the calyx of a flower; and even of this I could only remove in a
perfect state the innermost part, with three leaves folded together.
Although the work of destruction is eagerly proceeded with, we can
still perceive in the interior where at present the hired carriages
that ply to Khokand and Karshi take up their quarters--the mosque,
with the wonder-working gigantic Rahle; and many a century must the
people of Samarcand {212} continue to tear away and cut down before
this work of annihilation is complete.
[Greek Armenian Library not, as pretended, carried off by Timour.]
Besides these edifices, there are some other towers and dome-shaped
buildings, the work of bygone days. After having made every possible
investigation, in spite of all exertions, I have not been able to
discover any trace of that once famous Armenian Greek library, which,
according to a universally accredited tradition, the victorious Timour
swept away to Samarcand to ornament his capital. This fable, so I must
at once pronounce it, originated from the over-strained patriotism of
an Armenian priest, named Hadjator, who insists that he came from
Caboul to Samarcand, and discovered in the latter city large folios
with heavy chains (_à la_ Faust) in those towers, into which no
Musselman, from fear of Djins (Genii), would dare to venture. The
story was later, if I mistake not, made use of by a French _savant_,
in his 'History of the Armenians;' and as we Europeans are just as
fond as the Orientals of amusing ourselves with subjects that lie half
in light and half in darkness, it was actually believed by some (that
is, by those who busied themselves with antiquities) that the mighty
Asiatic conqueror had sent back to his capital, a distance of a
hundred stations, some hundred mules laden with Armenian Greek
manuscripts, in order that his Tartars might also familiarise
themselves with foreign languages and history!
[Architecture of Public Buildings not Chinese but Persian; Modern
Samarcand; Its Population]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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