Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
I disbelieve altogether the story that any such library ever existed;
my opinion is as strong also upon another subject, for I entirely
differ from those who ascribe a Chinese character to the monuments of
Samarcand. The political frontiers of China are, it is true, at a
distance of only ten days' journey, but China proper can {213} only be
reached in sixty days, and those who have even a faint idea of the
rigorous line of demarcation that guards the Celestial Empire, will
not very easily believe that the Chinese can have any idea in common
with the genuine Mahommedans, who are also themselves separatists. The
inscription upon the façade of the sepulchre of Timour, to which all
the other edifices in Samarcand have more or less resemblance in point
of style and decoration, shows clearly enough that the artists were
Persians, and one needs only to compare the monuments of this city
with those of Herat, Meshed, and Ispahan, to be convinced that the
architecture is Persian.
So much of the ancient and historical city of Samarcand. The new city,
whose actual walls are at the distance of a full league from the ruins
of the old walls, [Footnote 67] has six gates and a few bazaars that
have still survived from the ancient times; in these are offered at
low prices, manufactures in leather of high repute, and wooden
saddles, the enamel of which might even do honour to European
artisans. During my stay in the city of Timour the bazaars and other
public places and streets were continually thronged, because every
spot was occupied by the troops returning from their campaign; still
the regular residents can hardly exceed from 15,000 to 20,000, of whom
two-thirds are Özbegs, and one-third Tadjiks. The Emir, whose usual
residence is Bokhara, {214} is in the habit of passing two or three of
the summer months in Samarcand, because the situation is more
elevated, and the city has certain advantages of climate. In Bokhara
the heat is insupportable, but I found the temperature here very
agreeable; only the water recommended as Abi-Hayat (ambrosia) tasted
to me very detestable.
[Footnote 67: It is possible that the ruins only mark the boundary
of a suburb, for E. G. de Clavijo, who in 1403 formed part of an
embassy at the Court of Timour, informs us (see the translation of
that account by C. E. Markham, page 172), that the citadel lies at
one end of the town, where in fact it still is. The space between
the ruins and the modern wall may have been inhabited and yet not
have belonged to the city.]
[Dehbid]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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