Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
The following morning, the weather being unfavourable, we could only
move slowly; it was already evening when we reached Ashourada, the
most southerly point of the Russian possessions in Asia. It fell
definitively into the hands of the Czar twenty-five years ago: perhaps
it would be better to express ourselves thus, that it became subject
to Russia from the time when, with their steamers, they began to
strike the necessary degree of terror into the daring Alaman cruisers
of the Turkoman pirates. The name Ashourada is of Turkoman origin; it
was inhabited, but served them rather as a station for their then
frequent and unchecked piratical expeditions. The Ashourada of the
present day produces upon the traveller arriving from Persia an
agreeable impression. Small, it is true, is the number of houses built
at the east end of the tongue of land; but the European fashion of the
buildings, as well as the church that the eye encounters, were not
indifferent objects for me. The war steamers more particularly
reminded me of European modes of existence; and I cannot say how
inspiriting it was to see towards evening a steamer from Gez (a place
that serves as the port for Astrabad) gliding proudly by. The Russians
here maintain three war steamers (two large and one small), without
the protection of which neither the Russian settlers nor the sailing
vessels proceeding from Astrakhan would be safe from the attacks of
the Turkomans. So long indeed as the merchantman remains out at sea,
it has no cause for alarm; and it rarely ventures to approach the
coast without being in the escort of a steamer, whose {40} protection
is also necessary for the voyage back. The Russian Government makes,
naturally, the greatest exertions, and at the greatest cost, to
paralyse the predatory habits of the Turkomans. This plague has, in
effect, somewhat diminished; still to establish security is an
impossibility, and many unhappy Persians, and even occasionally
Russian, sailors are hurried away in chains to Gömüshtepe. The Russian
ships cruise incessantly day and night in the Turkoman waters; and
every Turkoman vessel that is about to proceed from the east coast to
the Persian shore on the south, must be provided with a pass, for
which the owner has to pay yearly 8, 10, or 15 ducats. This pass is
renewable at the end of each year, and must be exhibited every time
the vessel passes Ashourada, when it is visited by the Russian
functionaries to ascertain if it has on board prisoners, arms, or
other contraband merchandise. The consequence of this salutary
regulation is that a great part of the Turkoman merchant shipping has
been overhauled and registered, and the rest mostly navigate in
indirect courses, and if encountered by the Russian cruisers are
taken, or, in case of resistance, sunk. Whilst thus on the one side
steps of necessary vigour have been taken, on the other a policy has
been adopted of establishing friendly relations with one tribe so as
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