Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
Next morning I awoke in the greatest agitation; the sound of a bell
was heard from Ashourada; my fellow-travellers said that this was
Sunday, the holiday of the Unbelievers. I knew not which Sunday
[Footnote 8] it was. We were close to a ship of war that had all its
colours flying; suddenly we saw sailors in full uniform in a boat
approach the shore with regular measured strokes of their oars; an
officer in full dress then stepped in, and was soon taken on board the
ship of war. Ten minutes had hardly elapsed when they called to us to
approach, and I then saw on their deck near the gangway several
fair-haired officers standing together. My heart began to beat
violently; we approached nearer and nearer; all my effort now was to
maintain such an attitude as might least attract attention, and avoid
as far as possible the dreaded _tête-à-tête_. As fortune willed, our
vessel on approaching the Russians presented to it first that side
upon which I was seated, so that the assembled officers were only able
to see my neck.
[Footnote 8: During my journey I often lost sight of dates, and it
was only later that I learned that this was Easter Sunday (Russian
style).]
{43}
On account of the day, the examination was but slight and formal. The
Dollmetsh exchanged a few words with Yakoub; our mendicant company
fixed the attention of the officers. Amongst other things I heard one
say, 'See how white this Hadji is.' [Footnote 9]
[Footnote 9: 'Smotrite kakoi bieloï etot Hadji.']
This allusion was probably made to me, whose complexion had not yet
assumed the hue of uncivilised life. If so, it was the only
observation they made upon me; for they had soon done with Yakoub, and
in a moment we were far away from the side of the Russian vessel.
I now raised myself from my stooping and half-sleeping position, and
took a long breath, for my anxiety was at an end. Soon afterwards the
wind began to blow strongly from the west. Now was the time to get up
our sails and make all haste for Gömüshtepe, which was but three
leagues off; but Yakoub kept his eye fixed on a white point in the
distance, and held a council with his crew: nor was it until this
dreaded object had entirely vanished, that our large sail was
unfurled, and we darted with the swiftness of an arrow towards the
east.
At about half a league distance from Ashourada, we passed several
sea-marks, consisting of long painted poles. I was told by Yakoub that
they had been placed there by the 'Inghiliz,' to mark the limits of
the Russian waters, the other side belonging to the Turkomans, whom
the 'Inghiliz 'would always protect against the attack of the
Russians. It was always a riddle to me to discover who had instilled
into these wild sons of the desert such far-reaching ideas of policy.
It is not for me to discriminate these {44} sea-marks; still less to
weigh the amount of sympathy felt by England for the Turkomans.
[Arrival at Gömüshtepe and at the Mouth of the Gorghen.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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