Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and SamarcandVámbéry, Ármin
History
Travels in Central Asia: Being the Account of a Journey from Teheran Across the Turkoman Desert on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian to Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Vámbéry, Ármin, 1832-1913 -- Travel -- Asia, Central
After his prayer was ended, Khandjan arose, and as I perceived him
standing before me, he was a handsome, tall, and slender man, about
forty years of age, dressed in extremely modest attire, with a long
beard descending to his breast. He at once approached me, hastily
embraced, and gave me a hearty welcome; in doing so he greeted me by
my name. He received the Hadjis Bilal and Salih in a similar manner;
and after the karavan had stowed away their sacks, and was once more
afoot, we closed the procession, all taking the road towards the
tents. The report of our arrival had spread everywhere: our numbers
were exaggerated: women, children, and dogs all hastened in strange
confusion out of the tents, to gaze upon the approaching pilgrims, and
by an embrace (as the {46} Mollahs pretend) to acquire, in obedience
to the Divine command respecting pilgrimage, a participation in the
merit and rewards of pilgrims. This first picture of Central Asiatic
life had so taken me by surprise, that I was puzzled whether I should
pause first to admire the singular construction of the tents, formed
of felt, and the women with their silk shifts extending to the ankles,
or at once gratify the wish implied by their outstretched hands and
arms. Strange! young and old, without distinction of sex or family,
all wished to touch the Hadjis on whom the holy dust of Mecca and
Medina still rested. Judge, too, of my amazement when women of the
greatest beauty, some girls even, hurried up to embrace me. We were
tired, worn out by these demonstrations of respect arising from
blended feelings of religion and hospitality, when we arrived before
the tent of the chief Ishan (priest), where our little karavan was
concentrated: then began one of the most interesting spectacles that
my eyes have ever witnessed. Here were to begin the arrangements for
quartering the guests that had just arrived. The passion and warmth
with which all disputed the honour and right of harbouring one or more
of these poor strangers astounded me. I had heard, it is true, the
hospitality of the nomads spoken of, but never dreamed that it could
have risen to such a point.
Khandjan quieted the quarrels which had commenced among the women; he
restored order, and assigned the different guests to each, retaining
as his own peculiar guests Hadji Bilal and myself, with all that
belonged to us: he took us with him to his Ova (tent). [Footnote 10]
[Footnote 10: Ova, properly translated _tent_, is used here by the
Turkomans to indicate a house and court.]
{47}
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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